Getting Past the Fear

In April of last year, our last morning of surfing on spring break before heading home to Albuquerque, I did something I knew not to do: I let my surfboard get in front of me. I paid the price when I was whacked in the face and left with a black eye. It’s easy to do because the surf is unpredictable and the moment you think that you know more than ocean, she reminds you that she’s queen.

I have completely physically healed from that accident but it left me with a challenging fear about getting back on the board. It’s not being on the board that scares me, it’s getting past the breaks. I’m not fifteen years old and fearless (not that I ever was but I see many young people surfing and I can tell they are). I know the stories about what can happen when you surf: the broken limbs, shattered teeth, the scars on the face from the fins.

Life is much the same way though. We are born unafraid of anything. While we must learn to not touch a hot stove or hot iron, our experiences also make us fearful of many things. Including success.

While it was cold in Los Angeles last week (never have I surfed­– or swam in my pool– when the air was in the forties), I found myself barely able to get in the water. And one day when I got caught in one of those unpredictable waves and tossed around, I quickly went back to the beach.

I’m hoping at spring break the air will be warmer and the surf slow and rolling so I can get my surfing groove back. And like life, it’s all about the patience to get there.