The Mosques of Üsküb

Skopje has been the capital of an independent republic for just over twenty years. Before that, it had been a part of Yugoslavia for around eighty years. But during the 520 years before that, Skopje belonged to the Ottoman Empire, who had given it the name of Üsküb. Five centuries are apparently enough to leave a lasting impression; north of the Vardar River, the city has retained much of its Turkish identity.

Mosques, Turkish baths, tea gardens, nargile cafes, and even some old guys sitting a...