WHITBY
This week I had myself a little holiday. My wife and I went away for a few days to Bram Stoker’s favourite holiday spot, Whitby on the North Yorkshire coast. Those of you familiar with Stoker’s classic novel ‘Dracula’ will of course know that part of that book is set in Whitby. The Russian ship that brings Dracula to England crashes into the stone Jetty there ahead of a fierce storm. It is also there that Lucy is first attacked by the Count and Mina catches her first glimpse of him in St Mary churchyard, after running up the 199 stone steps that lead to the top of the hill.
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Yesterday I climbed those 199 steps walking and had to rest halfway up, so Mina must have been quite worn out running. The view from up there is spectacular though. Behind the church are the ruins of Whitby Abbey, which was partially destroyed during it’s suppression by Henry VIII. These are some stunning ruins, they stand watch over the town like some great, skeletal beast.
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As a horror writer I found myself, throughout the day, wondering if Stoker had sat in the places I was, if so was he planning Dracula? It felt quite amazing to think that maybe I was sat in the same spot as the man who wrote the most famous horror novel of all time. I doubt there is a single person on Earth who does not know who Dracula is. Whitby is incredibly proud of it’s connection to Stoker’s masterpiece. Everywhere you go there is some connection to it.
Perhaps one of the most disappointing places that we visited was the Dracula Experience. This place bills it’s self as a terrifying attraction, dedicated to the infamous Transylvanian Count. It is not a terrible place to visit, and for a mere £2 I suppose you cannot expect the incredible, but I would have preferred to pay more and have the attraction be better. Firstly, it was way too short, it took us less than five minutes to go through the whole thing. Secondly, too much of it was hidden in darkness. Things that were supposed to make you jump would light up, or pop out, too early and then when you stood there waiting to see it again, nothing happened. It is annoying, as with a little more thought it could be a wonderful place to visit. The final thing I found weird about it was that all of it’s decal and many of it’s set pieces were designed to look like Francis Ford Coppola’s 1992 version ‘Bram Stoker’s Dracula’. Now though that film has many faults, it is still a film that I personally really enjoy. However, that version completely cuts Whitby out of the narrative, having the Russian ship crash directly in London. So I find it odd that an attraction in Whitby would model itself on that film.
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Lastly I must praise the place we stayed, the wonderful Bats and Broomsticks B&B. This gothic themed guesthouse was superb in every respect. Kev, the owner, was a wonderful host. He gave us a warm welcome and seemed to be willing to help in any way he could. The room we stayed in was called the ‘Green Man Room’, and it gave us a wonderful view of the Abbey, illuminated at night. The grand, iron four poster bed was stunning, and incredibly comfortable. The little features like the ivy wrapped around the bed frame, complete with vampire bat, were so interesting and made a delightful change from the dreary neutrality of a Travelodge or Holiday Inn, and we even had a vampire killing kit in the wardrobe. The breakfast this morning was huge, and delicious.
The town holds a horror film festival and a Goth Weekend every year, which both must be great fun. If you are a fan of horror, it is the perfect destination. I certainly felt myself being inspired to write by the scenery, the people and the ever present spectre of Bram Stoker and his most famous creation.... Count Dracula.
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