Pralines
In Europe we associate a praline with a sweet consisting of a chocolate casing with a soft centre, often made from finely ground nuts. Known as Belgian chocolate, Belgian chocolate fondant or chocolate bonbon, pralines were supposedly introduced by the Belgian chocolatier, Jean Neuhaus II, in 1912. However, the original form of praline was a different form of confectionary with a much earlier origin.
One of the earliest references in English print appeared in 1727 in the form of prawlin, defined as a “confection made of almonds stirred with boiling sugar and water”, and derived from the French word, praline, which in turn was derived from the rather splendidly named 17th century French diplomat, César, duc de Choiseul, comte du Plessis Praslin. It is said that Praslin’s personal chef, Clement Lassagne, was the first creator of the praline.
Quite how Lassagne got the idea is shrouded in mystery. One story goes that he derived the idea from watching children scavenging for scraps in the kitchens and nibbling on the almond and caramel leftovers from one of his desserts. Another story suggests that Lassagne, discovering that children were stealing almonds from his kitchen, was lured by the delicious smell produced as they caramelised the contraband in sugar over the flame of a candle.
Another theory is that Lassagne got the idea when a clumsy apprentice knocked over a container of almonds into a vat of cooking caramel. Yet another theory suggests that du Plessis-Praslin was a lady’s man and asked his chef to produce an irresistible treat that he could give to his latest paramour. Praslin would put the sweet sugary sweets in little parcels bearing his name and after a while people began calling the sweets after him.
Perhaps the most likely version, though, certainly one propagated by Maison Mazet in the French town of Montargis, is that Clément Jaluzot served a dessert consisting almonds coated with vanilla caramelised sugar at a reconciliation dinner between the Jurats of Bordeaux, organised by du Plessis-Pralin in 1636. So enamoured with the dessert was Praslin that he stole the recipe, claiming it as his own.
Jaluzot was furious and sought his revenge by opening La Maison de Praline in Montargis, using his recipe which has been kept secret to this day. The business was bought along with the recipe in 1903 by Léon Mazet and it continues to be the only place producing Montargis pralines in accordance with the original recipe, awarded Living Heritage Company status. They are now sold in some 2,000 outlets around France and exported to around forty countries.
During the 19th century praline was used to describe other items of confectionary including the nut paste encased in a chocolate shell that we associate with the term now.
The praline was introduced to America from France, where almonds where replaced by the locally sourced pecan nuts to produce a sugary, pecan-laden confection, particularly associated with New Orleans. Pralinières would wander the streets of the French Quarter of the city selling the pralines during the mid to late-19th century, a vital source of income to les gens de couleur libres. Modern day New Orleans pecan pralines are little different from those sold on the streets 150 years ago.
It is fascinating how the usage of the term praline has developed over time.
