Twelve Keys Gin
And now for something completely different. In 1599 on of the most important and influential alchemical works was published, The Twelve Keys, attributed to Basil Valentine but probably by Johann Thölde. The text falls into two parts, the second containing twelve short chapters, each of which gives an allegorical description of a step in the process to create the Philosopher’s Stone. The text was deliberately obscure, intended to be accessible only by those who were well versed in the mysteries of alchemy.
Matthew and Alex Clifford have used this alchemical lodestone as the hook upon which to base the concept of their Twelve Keys Gin, launched in 2018. Unsurprisingly, therefore, the gin uses twelve botanicals, each carefully selected not only for their somewhat out there flavour profiles but also because they reflect one of four periods of the history of distillation; The Cult of Bacchus, Persia, said to be the home of alchemy and advanced distillation, the medicinal scriptures of the Benedictine monks, and the ritualistic uses of juniper by Cathar priests.
If after all of this you are expecting a weird and wonderful botanical profile, you will not be disappointed. Along with the traditional foursome of juniper, cinnamon, orris, and angelica we have frankincense, caraway seeds, gentian root, honey from Matthew’s own farm, basil, apricots, quince, and figs. Using a mixture of distilling techniques, vapour infusing some botanicals and pot distilling others and finishing off with the honey, Clifford has produced a crystal clear spirit with an ABV of 46%.
Despite the unusual array of botanicals, this is very much a spirit in the London Dry Gin tradition with a firm base of piney juniper. Nevertheless, there is a strong and warming backdrop of honey and the sweeter notes are provided by the apricot, quince, and figs. It was a complex and subtle drink, one which meets Clifford’s aim of producing a harmonious combination of flavour and style.
If the selection of the botanicals and the calibration of the mix shows careful and intelligent planning, the bottle itself also provides proof that this is a quality product. It is stunningly elegant, using cylindrical clear glass for the body, leading up to rounded shoulders, a medium-sized neck and a wooden stopper with artificial cork. The lip of the bottle is of the now ever so trendy fat variety. The labelling makes impressive use of copper lettering on a deep blue background and the key image on the front is of an alchemical design. It looks great.
Whether Clifford created his philosopher’s stone is a moot point. While the gin was launched in 2018 and is available from all the usual stockists – I got mine from my recent trip to Drinkfinder UK – the distillery website is no longer available, making me wonder whether it is still in production. The guys at Drinkfinder were telling me that gin sales had dropped by over 40%. Perhaps what the ginaissance giveth, it also taketh away and the gin boom is truly over.
Until the next time, cheers!
