Budapest, Fast and Slow

Chariot drivers and horses race at Heroes Square, reflecting the best of Budapest

You can race through Budapest at a gallop, but you’ll notice more at a gentle pace.
© Joyce McGreevy


Hungarian Travel Tips in Two Tempos

I’m lingering at a bisztro in Budapest’s Jewish Quarter, savoring every bite of cholent.  It’s an Ashkenazi slow-and-low cooked casserole.  Guests keep arriving in waves. So, when the waiter approaches, I assume it’s to drop the bill and hasten me on my way.


Instead, he recommends flodni, a 20-ingredient stuffed wonder he airily summarizes as a “light pastry.” Or perhaps another glass of rozé?


“Jaj! Most kell dolgoznum,” I sigh. “Alas, I must work now.” Back in Chicago, the workday’s in high gear. As a digital nomad, I’ve got a manuscript to deliver.


A patron and pianist at Spinoza Café, where the best travel tip is to savor the Budapest experience. Image © Joyce McGreevy

A neighborly chat at Spinoza Café.
© Joyce McGreevy


Meanwhile, the piano man asks, “Szeretsz énekelni?” “Would you like to sing?” As a...

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Published on October 02, 2017 03:00
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