Marc Spagnuolo's Blog, page 9

Her Clothes Fell Off the Wall | Walk-In Dream Closet Part 1

Nicole’s clothes literally fell off the wall when the builder grade wire shelving collapsed. I decided to be the hero and build her the closet of her dreams, or at least as close as I could get. This is the first part of a 2-part series where I install the main large closet units including hangers and shelves.

Stuff Used in the Video:Backside 2-Sided SandpaperCeiling Hole CutterAmana Countersink BitFestool TS55Milwaukee Drill and Driver ComboThe Toe DuctorKreg K4 Pocket Hole JigFestool Domino 500Shelf Pin JigMatch Fit Dovetail ClampsAdjustable Oval Closet RodMilwaukee Compact RouterAccuscribe Scribing ToolTitebond Quick & ThickRockler Bandy ClampsMilwaukee 18 ga Brad NailerTimbermate Wood FillerMiter Spring Clamps3M 6500 RespiratorMilwaukee Jig SawChris Schwarz’s American Welsh Stick Chair CourseHardwax Oil Comparison Video

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Her Clothes Fell Off the Wall | Dream Closet Part 1

Nicole’s clothes literally fell off the wall when the builder grade wire shelving collapsed. I decided to be the hero and build her the closet of her dreams, or at least as close as I could get. This is the first part of a 2-part series where I install the main large closet units including hangers and shelves.

Stuff Used in the Video:Backside 2-Sided SandpaperAmana Countersink BitFestool TS55Milwaukee Drill and Driver ComboThe Toe DuctorKreg K4 Pocket Hole JigFestool Domino 500Shelf Pin JigMatch Fit Dovetail ClampsAdjustable Oval Closet RodMilwaukee Compact RouterAccuscribe Scribing ToolTitebond Quick & ThickRockler Bandy ClampsMilwaukee 18 ga Brad NailerTimbermate Wood FillerMiter Spring Clamps3M 6500 RespiratorMilwaukee Jig SawChris Schwarz’s American Welsh Stick Chair CourseHardwax Oil Comparison Video

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Organize Your Kitchen Drawers!

There’s nothing worse than a disorganized kitchen drawer. Alleviate the frustration with a simple organizational grid made from shop scraps.

Stuff I Used:

Preppin’ Weapon Sanding BlocksMinwax Spray LacquerMilwaukee Trim Router1/8″ Radius Roundover Bit

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How to Fix a BAD Kitchen Cabinet Paint Job

There’s no more hotly debated topic in DIY circles than painting wood cabinets. I learned that the hard way when I posted a Kitchen Cabinet Painting video a couple years ago. Regardless of how you personally feel about the topic, you might one day be confronted with the challenge of fixing a bad kitchen paint job, either in your own home or someone else’s. The problem with the DIY painting trend is that a lot of people don’t actually know how to paint or what tools to use, resulting in orange peel, drips, and uneven layers. I’m no professional painter but I do have enough knowledge and tools to improve a bad paint job, and that’s what we did in this video. Hopefully this will help you if you have to fix a BAD Kitchen Cabinet Paint Job.

Step 1 – Remove the doors, drawers, and hardware. You can’t expect to lay down an even finish if you have to navigate around obstacles. So take the time to remove everything you can. It’s a good idea to label the parts using some masking tape and a marker so you can keep track of them and make sure each door and drawer returns to its original location.

Step 2 – Smooth the problem areas. If you were to apply new paint over an old paint job with no surface prep, the rough surface will just telegraph through the finish and you’ll be no better off. Furthermore, there’s likely oil and grease on the cabinets that should be removed for the sake of getting a good bond with the new paint. You can alleviate both issues by simply sanding the surface. You don’t necessarily need to sand back to bare wood though you certainly could. As long as we level the surface and even out the flawed areas, the new paint should lay down smooth. Of course you’ll want to remove any sanding dust with a vacuum.

Step 3 – An important part of getting a smooth and seamless look with a kitchen paint job is caulking. The gaps that exist between cabinets and trim will stick out like an eyesore, especially with white and other light colored paints. So take your time to caulk any gaps you see and let it dry completely before moving on to the painting step.

Step 4 – Apply new high quality paint. On the face frames, I find it easiest to use a good quality brush. Spraying always gives me better results but I’m usually not prepared for all of the masking required to spray in an existing kitchen. If there any large surfaces that need painting like a cabinet side, a smooth roller is a good option. For the doors and drawers, spraying is the way to go if possible. These days you can pick up an inexpensive turbine sprayer that will get the job done for about $130. Or step up a bit to this model: Earlex 5700. Or step up even more to my favorite brand, Fuji. You might have to dilute the paint to get the right viscosity but it’s worth the effort. Apply as many coats as you need in order to get a nice even and consistent color and sheen.

The difference in surface quality is night and day when you use the correct materials and methods. Ideally, no one should notice the paint job. They should see the cabinets and admire them, but if they ‘notice’ the paint job, something is wrong. So hopefully this helps you fix a bad paint job if you ever need to.

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I Made the PERFECT Bench for Our Criss-Cross Table

I recently made a large Criss-Cross Dining Table featuring an experimental base design. Once the table was complete, I decided to extend the design to a matching sitting bench. Of course I had to change a few angles and scale things down, but in the end the bench was just a smaller version of the table. I also took this opportunity to try a couple variations in tools and techniques for its construction.

If you want to try your hand at this project, take a look at the full course in the Wood Whisperer Guild: Criss-Cross Dining Table & Bench

The finish I used is Bumblechutes, a natural tung oil finish. You can save 10% using the code TWW10 at Bumblechutes.com

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Step Aside, Rubio; The Game has Changed | Hardwax Oil Comparison

Hardwax Oils have increased in popularity over the last ten or so years and it’s easy to see why: a simple wipe-on/wipe-off finish that leaves a nice consistent surface is pretty much every woodworker’s dream. For the longest time, Rubio Monocoat was the only game in town (at least in the category of 2-component hardwax oils) and their high pricing seemed to reflect that. Fast-forward to 2023 and suddenly Rubio has serious competition, with several new 2-component offerings from other companies. Suffice it to say that the game has changed, and I’ll be very interested to see how things shake out over the coming years.

In the meantime, I decided to put these finishes to the test. I tested cherry and walnut samples all cut from the same board. Finishes include:

Rubio MonocoatNatura OnecoatRustic Lumber Furniture OilGeneral Finishes Hardwax OilOsmo 2K Wood OilSheen Testing

Test samples were observed for overall sheen after both one coat and two coats. Because it’s very difficult to capture subtle difference in sheen in the form of video, we instead decided to do some blind testing instead, with three separate people.

Results:

Marc Walnut Most Sheen – OsmoMarc Walnut Least Sheen – General FinishesJay Walnut Most Sheen – OsmoJay Walnut Least Sheen – General FinishesNicole Walnut Most Sheen – OsmoNicole Walnut Least Sheen – General FinishesMarc Cherry Most Sheen – OsmoMarc Cherry Least Sheen – General FinishesJay Cherry Most Sheen – OsmoJay Cherry Least Sheen – General FinishesNicole Cherry Most Sheen – OsmoNicole Cherry Least Sheen – Unable to spot a difference

The sheen test was quite definitive even though the differences detected were subtle. With one exception (Nicole wasn’t able to pick a ‘least sheen’ for cherry) we all selected Osmo for the most sheen and General Finishes for the least sheen on both the cherry and walnut samples. The other three finishes (Rustic Lumber, Natura, and Rubio) were indiscernible. Note that Osmo was the only finish in the test that had a decent amount of gloss after just one coat. All others showed a significant improvement in sheen after a second coat but still couldn’t match Osmo.

Abrasion Testing

I tried several different ways to test abrasion on my sample boards in a meaningful way. Unfortunately, given that these finishes are not film-forming and don’t offer much protection beyond resisting liquids, I couldn’t come up with a test that produces actionable results. Abrasion durability, in the case of most hardwax oils, is more about the natural durability of the wood and not so much the finish. In my opinion, comparing these finishes based on scratch resistance is a little like debating which brand of plastic wrap makes for the most suit of armor.

Liquid Testing

Each sample was divided up into six sections and each section was exposed to a different liquid/wet material. The samples were exposed for 15 minutes. Because of the damage observed at 15 minutes, I felt no need to do an extended overnight exposure test. If you’re interested in seeing how each sample fared, please check out my spreadsheet. Hardwax Oil Comparison – Liquid Test Spreadsheet

Results (higher number means MORE damage):

Natura Onecoat – 17 (least damage)Rustic Lumber Finish – 24Rubio Monocoat – 26Osmo 2K Wood Oil – 28General Finishes – 30 (most damage)Skin-Over Test

There’s nothing worse than spending a lot of money on a finish, using it once, and then coming back a month later to a can of solidified material. So I tested the oil components alone (no hardener) to see how they behave when exposed to oxygen for 24 hours and then 48 hours. I’m theorizing that the oils that set up the fastest will also be the oils that are most likely to set up prematurely in the can.

Results:

General Finishes was still in a liquid state with no skin after 48 hours. Natura Onecoat was still liquid after 24 hours but skinned over by 48 hours. All other finishes skinned over after 24 hours.

Repair Test

One of the main selling points of hardwax oils is their repairability. Traditional film finishes are difficult to repair since you have to sand several layers of finish before getting to the wood. Applying finish on top just makes matters worse as the layers become more visible and the new film becomes impossible to feather into the surrounding area. Due to the nature of hardwax oils and their non-film-forming characteristics, we should be able to do clean spot repairs. To test this, we took our sample boards (which now contained damage from the liquid tests) and subjected them to a repair. The board was sanded to remove raised grain and dulled finish. We tried to focus on the damaged areas with only a very light scuffing in the surrounding areas. The surfaces were then cleaned and recoated with their respective finish.

Results:

Every sample board had a very obvious repair. From some vantage points, the repair can’t be seen but from MOST vantage points, it can. While I’d say these finishes are still far more repairable than something like a traditional varnish or poly, I can’t say that the repair is perfect, or even great. In fact, if this was a repair on a table for a client, this repair would not pass muster. When I do repairs with these finishes, I usually count on sanding back the entire surface that’s getting the repair and then recoating that entire surface all at once. Here’s the Tanin Remover I mentioned: Rubio Tanin Remover

Conclusions

First things first. It’s important to realize that these finishes are more the same than they are different. This class of finishes has a fixed set of properties and the differences between them are minute.

Most Durable: Natura OnecoatBest Looking: Osmo 2K Wood OilBest Value: Rustic Lumber FinishOverall Winner: Natura Onecoat

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Sharp & Attractive Way to Store Kitchen Knives!

I’m not all that precious about live edge, but when I have a nice little piece sitting around it would be a shame not to use it for something cool. To help save space in my kitchen, I decided to turn a small live edge scrap into a magnetic knife holder.

The key to making this work is cutting off a thin veneer from the top face of the board. The magnets are then installed in the board and the veneer is added on top to provide a nearly seamless look.

Use code��TWW10��to save 10% at��Bumblechutes.comGet your Wood Whisperer T-Shirt! TWWStore.comMagnets I used: KJ Magnetics D84

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Harbor Freight Bremen Parallel Clamp 4-Month Review

I’ve seen (and read) a lot of clamp reviews over the years. Most of them cobble together a series of pseudo-scientific testing parameters and torture tests that seem important, but actually do very little to tell you how the clamps will perform over the course of years in your shop. So when I decided to conduct a review of the Harbor Freight Bremen Parallel Clamps, I knew I had to approach this with a common sense frame of mind. We won’t be testing the flatness of panels, the squareness of the heads, or the clamping force available (watch this video to see why – The Truth about Parallel Clamps). Instead, we’re going to do something incredibly ground-breaking: we’re going to use the clamps for a few months. I purchased four clamps directly from my local Harbor Freight and used the clamps in numerous glueups. In between glueups, the clamps were exposed to daily stress via mock glueups. One of the clamps was designated as the “abuse clamp” and received a little more rough treatment than the other three, which included some rough handling as well as repeated dragging of the head over the serrated bar.

TLDR Conclusion

The video goes into a lot of detail so be sure to watch it if you want the full story, but here’s a quick summary. Out of the four clamps, one failed after a few months of use as evidenced by constant slipping under pressure. After dissecting the clamp, it appeared that the malleable head material was ground smooth, which lead to the premature smoothing of the serrated teeth on the bar.�� As a result, the head could no longer grip the bar.�� Oddly enough, the clamp that failed was NOT the clamp that received the additional abuse. We tested the Lifetime Guarantee by returning the clamp to our local Harbor Freight and the clamp was exchanged for a new one with no questions asked.

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality and performance of the Harbor Freight Bremen Parallel Clamps. In spite of the premature failure I experienced, I think many woodworkers would be well-served by these clamps especially given the cost savings and the peace of mind provided by the lifetime guarantee. But if you put a lot of hours on these clamps, I suspect you’ll be testing that return policy sooner than later.

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Torsion Boxes Overrated? – My New BIG Assembly Table

This is my new assembly table. Made from construction grade 2×4’s, 2×6’s, plywood, and laminate. If you want to save some extra money, you can make the top from a sheet of melamine and end up with he same spill-proof surface. The table features a bunch of storage with the option to customize it however you like.

While I played a big role in popularizing torsion boxes with my early videos, I’ve come to the conclusion that they’re overkill for woodworkers. So I’m keeping mine simple.

Links:Pre-Order the Fremont BedTorsion Box Assembly TableOutfeed Assembly TableAmana Countersink BitHeavy Duty SlidesWorkbench CastersLeveling FeetFree Plans:Freedom VersionMetric Version

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Why are we destroying a perfectly good table?!

Several years ago Jason and I made a dining table. Original Mid-Century Modern Table.
While there’s technically nothing wrong with the original design, the mid-century modern styling brings with it a few challenges for a busy family of four. Because the legs spread out, it limits the overall seating capacity and anyone sitting near the end of the long side will occasionally bang their knee. So we set out to alleviate these problems with a slight re-design, using as much of the original table as possible. The new version of the table is much more functional for Jason’s family and aside from two new rails, features all original materials. We also took the time to change the finish from Rubio to Sherwin Williams Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer.

Stuff shown in the video:

Flush Trim SawPreppin’ Weapon Sanding BlockLeather Holdfast SleevesBevel GaugeFestool DominoFuji Turbine Sprayer

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