Marc Spagnuolo's Blog, page 51

Oil Finishes & Wobbly Boxes – Friday Live PM!

This is our first Friday Live PM Edition! I show you how I like to apply oil finishes as well as how to fix a wobbly box. Of course, we have your Q&A and plenty of nonsense thanks to some delicious Belgian beer (thanks Jim!).

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36″ vs 50” Tablesaws & Why People Give Us Money – Friday Live!

Today we’re talking about the benefits and disadvantages of larger vs smaller tablesaws as well as the reasons why folks give us their hard-earned money.  Speaking of your support, help us out on Patreon!  Here’s the Q&A rundown:

Rundown is being worked on.

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Wiping Varnish Shootout

This video is sponsored by Bloxygen! Make sure you use every last drop of that expensive finish by spraying some Bloxygen in the can before you seal it up! Check them out at Bloxygen.com!

Those who have been following me for a while probably already know my affinity for wiping varnishes. In fact, the first DVD I ever made focused on my application method for wiping varnishes called A Simple Varnish Finish. By the way, the title is still available on DVD or digitally via The Guild.  As much as for my own curiosity as everyone else’s edification, I wanted to do a side by side comparison between some popular variations of wiping varnish. I’ve used all of these finishes in the past but I have never used them side by side. By finishing some test boards, I figured I could not only gather information about their application characteristics but also the resulting look of the finishes and how they might hold up to various durability tests.

I polled the audience to determine which tests I would run and I received a lot of great suggestions. What I demonstrate in this video is just a small sampling but I feel they represent a decent variety of real world situations. Are they truly scientific tests? Nope! Do they cover every scenario? Nope! But they just might give you some valuable insight into which product you should select for your next project.

I summarized my test results into a convenient Google spreadsheet for those who need a quick reference. The list is too long to publish directly in this article so please feel free to access that here. The spreadsheet contains color coding to denote “best” and “worst” performance. With many of the tests, the results are subjective and no color-coding was applied.

Here are the products I used in the shootout:

Minwax Wipe-On Poly
General Finishes Arm-R-Seal
Waterlox Sealer
Waterlox Gloss

Opinions and Facts

During this experimentation process, I not only answered a few questions of my own but also had a chance to confirm or deny some opinions I’ve seen stated about these finishes over the years.

Waterlox is better because it’s easily repairable

Waterlox is indeed repairable, but so are Arm-R-Seal and Minwax Wipe-On Poly. Where Waterlox Sealer might have an advantage is if you need to do a spot repair. Because the material is thinner and there’s less of a film on the surface, you might very well be able to spot sand one area and reapply the finish without having to treat the entire surface. But that seems to be more a property of the dilution than it is about the particular varnish in the can.

Poly looks like plastic

In the past, I have denied this with regard to wipe-on poly. I used Arm-R-Seal for years (which contains poly) and never thought it looked like plastic. So I’ve recently started using a lot of Minwax Wipe-On Poly due to its convenient availability and I’ve been quite pleased with the results. But during this experiment, I was able to look at the gloss versions of these finishes side by side and the Minwax Wipe-On Poly did indeed have more of a plastic look to it. Most of my projects are finished with satin or semi-gloss finishes so it’s something I might not notice on my projects. But at least when comparing the full gloss material, I have to admit that Minwax Wipe-On Poly does indeed look more like plastic. But we can’t forget Arm-R-Seal also contains poly and does NOT appear like plastic. So the problem could be brand specific, coming down to the proprietary mixture of resins, and we probably shouldn’t throw all poly-containing products under the bus.

You Get What You Pay For

If this were true, I’d be buying Waterlox products from here on out. But in many areas, Waterlox was outperformed by Arm-R-Seal which is the least expensive product in the lineup. Furthermore, Waterlox was outperformed in several areas by Minwax Wipe-on Poly, a finish that is often shunned by self-proclaimed finishing “experts.” So just because Waterlox is the most expensive certainly doesn’t mean it is the best for every situation. In fact, you should make absolutely sure the Waterlox products have the attributes you want before you plop down nearly twice as much for them.

X brand is just better than Y brand

If there are any take home messages I don’t want you to miss they would be the following:

1 – ALL of these finishes are capable of producing a high quality, durable, beautiful finish.

2 – No single finish is best at everything.

A “Winner?”

While I never intended to pick a winner, something became obvious to me as I was further refining my spreadsheet. Wherever possible, I assigned “Best” and “Worst” status to the appropriate finishes. If you look at those results and you give each test equal weight, it is technically possible to select a “winner.” Notice I keep putting that in quotes? That’s because there is no true winner. It all depends on what you’re looking for out of a finish and what wood you’re putting it on. But that said, Arm-R-Seal has the most “Best” designations and the fewest “Worst” designations out of all four finishes tested.

Disclaimer: These tests are not intended to be scientific or absolute in any way. Instead, it was a quick and dirty way to do a practical examination of these four finishes in some real world scenarios. Your mileage may vary. 

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Tom’s Dining Room Table

This table was built to accommodate a weekly gathering of friends for dinner. We regularly have 10 people over and needed a table that could extend to fit this size group. It is 74″ x 42″ with breadboard leaves (not shown) to bring it to a total of 96″ long.

The table is loosely based on a pottery barn table as we like the combination of wood and metal for a little industrial touch. We wanted something not quite so rustic as the store version. The entire table is black walnut from a local mill. The top is made of 4 slabs acquired green and left to air dry. They were joined with 1/2″ loose tenons and flattened to 1.75″ thick. The top is 42″W x 96″L. Eleven inch breadboard ends were then cut from each end to act as extension leaves as needed.

The legs are splayed 4 degrees and are made of solid black walnut stock. They are mortised together and also mortised into the top. The metal brackets and turnbuckle assemblies are all handmade as well.

The table is finished with 4 sprayed on coats of Waterlox satin finish, then wet sanded to 1200 grit and one more coat after that.

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The New Background – Friday Live!

Today we have a cool new background for the show as phase two of my garage conversion is underway. Of course, we also have the usual Q&A. Here’s the rundown!

1:43 – New Patreon level update: PM Show! Help support us!

4:58 – Pens and bowl blanks from Zac Higgins. Check out his YouTube channel.

6:41 – Houston area meetup  – Facebook Group

8:28 – Mag Dro caliper base 

11:00 – New tool wall/Shop Phase 2

13:37 – What would you recommend an all purpose shop table be surfaced with?

15:46 – What’s your go-to finish? How do you choose a finish for a project?

20:00 – How long should I let a half lapped frame sit in clamps before removing them?

21:13 – Nicole vs. Roubo

22:41 – What’s your experience with glue in a wide belt sander?

24:17 – Where can I purchase a good water stone set?

26:01 – Why is it difficult to locate quality hand tools in Europe?

28:43 – Any summer vacation plans?

30:03 – What question are you tired of getting or dread to answer?

31:31 – How big should a shop space be?

33:41 – How would you compare your Oneida & ClearVue?

34:01 – Planer or router after a bandsaw purchase?

35:20 – Why isn’t closed caption an option?

37:27 – Last week to enter for the Fuji Spray giveaway.

38:14 – Is there anything different you would have done with your business if you know what you know now?

40:52 – How to repair chipout when sending something through the planer the wrong way?

42:38 – Patreon supporter update

43:58 – Guild project winner

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Dan’s Fold-a-way Drafting Table

I was a structural draftsman for many years before there were computers and CAD systems. Over the years I’ve tried a variety of CAD programs but always return to my old drafting skills. Woodworking had always been a hobby to me, but since retiring I’ve turned that hobby into a full time business. I learned early on that producing working drawings for my projects and designs greatly increased my capabilities and helped to minimize the difficulties encountered making complex connections.

For me, once I’ve gone through all the dimensioning and design steps drawing the entire project and visualize building it on paper, I pretty much have committed the entire project to memory. It’s then much easier to move forward and build the piece with minimal complications and few references to the drawings.

Over the years I drew on a variety of drafting tables and knew what type suited my needs the best. I have limited office space so I knew I have to have a table that would fold up and minimize the foot print and therefore save space when not in use. I’ve always liked the simplicity, lines and functionality of arts and crafts style furniture and have closely followed the work of the masters of that movement in the early twentieth century.

My table has a folding top and legs that are piano hinged to the supporting frame. The top lifts up, the legs fold in and the top then drops down for compact storage. The table is made of red oak with a dark mission stain and sprayed lacquer finish. All of the joinery is done with traditional mortise and tenon joints. The top is made of 3/4″ Baltic birch plywood with a red oak band. I finished the top off with a standard drafting pad and a Mayline parallel bar. The pencil tray was salvaged off of an old drafting table I found in the trash.

The legs are the most unique feature of the table. The two leg frames are 1 1/2″ square red oak pieces with a suspended circular piece. The legs are a representation of the work done on this table…straight lines, square corners, angles and circles.

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Plane Blade Angles & Drawer Slides – Friday Live!

Today we’re discussing what various plane blade angles do as well as the benefits and drawbacks of wood slides. Of course, we’ll have tons of other topics and here’s the rundown:

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Bob’s Re-purposed Redwood Table

I was asked by my wife to build a table to go behind our couch in the family room. Having some 2-1/2″ thick redwood boards recycled from a above ground water tank, I decided to re-purpose these boards into this table. All boards were surfaced planed and jointed to 2-3/8″ thick. All joints are mortise and tenon. I integrated two 110v-USB plugs in the top to power small table lamps and to allow charging station for iPhone or iPads. Table legs and stretcher have mild curves inspired by your trestle table.

Entire table was sanded to 220 grit, then finished with Minwax polyurethane satin finish-8 coats. Table is 15″ wide, 32″ tall and 64″ long. I enjoyed making this table and have been asked to make two more for my daughters. Its the best reward ever for a woodworker when your work is appreciated by family. Having fun making sawdust!

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Monster C Clamp & Finishing Purpleheart – Friday Live!

Support the show on Patreon! http://patreon.com/woodwhisperer

1:31 – Denver maker meetup

2:59 – Home Made long reach clamp -https://youtu.be/wd16ZC_evTE

7:38 – Nicole got a challenge coin

8:44 – Tool Crib Children’s book – http://amzn.to/2r2UiTw

10:05 – Guild Dining Chair progress – https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/pro...

11:12 – Average age of viewers?

11:55 – Garry’s Photos

14:04 – What finish do you suggest for purpleheart to bring out the color?

15:28 – Marc & Nicole’s Address

The Wood Whisperer

5856 S. Lowell Blvd, Unit #32 #107

Littleton, CO 80123

15:51 – Is it or is it not safe to put end grain through a planer?

18:12 – Do you ever wish people used the search box on your website?

19:58 – My table saw blade sets to 90.2 degrees, is this an acceptable amount of error?

22:19 – Are there any differences in chisel quality other than steel quality?

23:22 – Do you use Japanese style handsaws?

24:53 – How many Board Feet are in the chest of drawers project?

25:25 – What wood should I use for my workbench?

27:03 – Do people join the guild just to watch the projects?

28:28 – Satisfied Guild member!

28:56 – Should I be using cauls to keep joints nice and flat when doing a panel glue-up?

30:07 – Would I be better off getting some hand tools first or buying a table saw first?

32:32 – Answer to Marc’s time travel question

33:24 – Would you ever build someone else’s design in the guild? – https://www.1stdibs.com/furniture/sea...

34:08 – When gluing end grain with epoxy, is there anything special I need to do to keep the joint strong?

36:58 – Are you going to any non-woodworking conventions?

37:52 – Any suggestions for cleaning F-Style Clamps?

39:15 – What about doing a guild series on picture frames?

39:52 – What about sealing varnish with lacquer?

41:20 – When are you doing the miter saw station?

43:12 – Are you going to make a video on the Makita miter saw?

44:01 – New Patreon supporters

45:35 – Guild Project Winner

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Ray’s Writing Table

With my son now in college we needed a writing desk for him to do his school work. Searching the internet, I found this beautiful specimen. Using pine boards and maple ply from the home store, I built this. I discovered many new things in woodworking. The legs are tapered (my first use of a tapering jig) and the top is trimmed in pine edging. Until now I have generally used edge banding on table edges. This has given me the confidence to use solid edging from now on.

I used General Finishes Java stain on the edging and frame, and spray lacquered the finish using an aerosol spray can on the frame and then brush lacquered the top. I discovered I do not like to use brushing lacquer. The top came out streaky and rough. It’s going to take a lot more buffing out. If anyone has suggestions how to improve that I’m listening. I truly understand why Marc’s go-to finish is wiping varnish. I normally use GF Arm-R-Seal myself but wanted to try something different. I’m not sure I’ll do brushing lacquer ever again, but the spray was not too bad. After doing this desk, my wife now wants a matching chair. Maybe it’s time for a guild membership…

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