Susan Spann's Blog, page 24

Traditional Sweets at Hamarikyu Gardens

Although I can’t do much sightseeing this trip due to chemotherapy (compromised immune systems and crowded places do not mix) I’m cleared for outdoor walks, and since Tokyo’s famous Hamarikyu Gardens are only two short blocks from my hotel, I took advantage of the excellent weather and went for a lovely walk this afternoon. Hamarikyu Gardens opened to the public in 1946, but the park has existed for centuries. Originally the private hunting and falconry ground of the Tokugawa shoguns, the gardens are now a public park. The gardens contain several lakes – some of which originally functioned as duck hunting

Ginza, Visas, and the Start of the 100 Summits Quest

Yesterday afternoon, I arrived in Tokyo to begin the first official step toward the #100Summits Project: filing my visa application. Japanese residence visas can be difficult to obtain, but I’m hopeful my plans to climb the hyakumeizan and my publishing contract for 100 SUMMITS–a nonfiction book about my quest to scale Japan’s most famous peaks in a single year–will be sufficient for me to obtain a one-year visa. I’m currently staying in Ginza – a portion of Tokyo named for the silver mint built here during the early 17th century (during the Edo period). Today, Ginza is famous for its upscale shops,

Traveling to Japan . . . on Chemotherapy

Tomorrow evening, I board a flight for Los Angeles, and Sunday morning I’m heading for Japan to meet with my immigration representative and sign my visa application. On Wednesday, I had my second infusion of Taxol chemotherapy (number 2 of 4) so I’ll be recovering from the side effects while I travel. Traveling on chemotherapy isn’t for everyone–and if you’re taking chemo, or otherwise under a doctor’s orders, you should always check with your doctor (and listen to his or her advice!) before planning travel. In my case, my oncologist encouraged me to take a number of precautions. I’m flying first class (to

Onward, Into the Breach!

Yesterday, my husband and I sold the house we’ve called home for the last 14 years and moved to a rental apartment where we’ll spend the next two months (and a little more) while waiting on our visa application for the move to Japan. When I decided, a year ago, to close my law practice and take a sabbatical year to climb the nihon hyakumeizan (hundred famous mountains of Japan) the endeavor seemed crazy but exciting–a chance to face my fears and live the life I’d always dreamed of living. Now that the time has come, it’s also terrifying. Fighting cancer has

Shojin Ryori – Japanese Temple Cuisine

Although I love most styles of Japanese cooking, my favorite is shojin ryori, or temple cuisine. This style of cooking, practiced primarily in Buddhist temples, came to China from Japan along with the Zen Buddhism. Since Buddhist practice forbids killing animals for consumption, shojin ryori contains no meat or fish and also eschews the use of “exciting” or “pungent” ingredients like garlic and onions. Meals are seasonal in nature and feature local produce. Shojin ryori focuses on aligning the body with nature and the seasons, and the dishes served vary accordingly. For example, an autumn meal might feature mushroom soba: While the noodles

A Delicious Adventure at Sensoji

While visiting Japan last December, I spent a couple of days at Sensoji – Tokyo’s oldest Buddhist temple, and one of my favorite places to visit when I’m in the city. During my second visit, I explored a narrow alley I’d never wandered down before . . . with delicious results! I love Sensoji for many reasons. The temple itself has beautiful (and impressive) architecture: Nakamise Shopping Street bustles with activity in any weather, from morning until after dark: And I love the seasonal decorations that hang above the shops. I’ve spent many hours wandering through the side streets around the

The Fish That Isn’t: Taiyaki

Taiyaki – a kind of filled pancake–are one of my favorite traditional Japanese treats. The fish-shaped cakes are easy to find–there’s a taiyaki vendor on the approach to many of Japan’s Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, and every festival has a taiyaki stand. Traditionally filled with sweetened adzuki bean paste or custard cream, I’ve also seen them filled with ice cream, chocolate custard, coconut cream, and jellies. One thing they don’t contain is fish. During my first trip to Japan I saw them, but didn’t try them because I wasn’t sure whether or not they were safe for a person with fish allergies

A Visit to Kongobuji, Part 2: The Dragon Garden

(To start the visit to Kongobuji from the beginning, click here.) After entering the main building of Kongobuji, visitors pass through the gold-doored ohiroma (sadly, no photos allowed) and along a hallway with wooden floors worn smooth by time and the passage of many feet. Like many Japanese temples, Kongobuji features gardens in every outdoor space, no matter how small. This garden runs alongside the hallway in the previous photograph: The temple’s indoor spaces are beautiful, and contain a wealth of history. Many treasures and artifacts are on display. Sadly, photos are not permitted inside, so our tour will have to

A Visit to Kongobuji, Part 1

Originally constructed in 1593 on the order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Kongobuji is currently the head temple of Koyasan Shingon Buddhism in Japan. Kongobuji means “Temple of the Diamond Mountain Peak.” The temple acquired this name after joining with another temple (which was also the time when it became the head temple of Koyasan Shingon).  The entrance to Kongobuji (which dates to 1593) lies on the main street of Mount Koya, about a block from the visitor center. It’s lovely at any time of year, but spectacular in the autumn: The roofed gate opens onto an enormous central yard. Directly ahead: the temple’s

Preparing to Hit the Mountain Roads

Although I’m currently only halfway through chemotherapy, I’ve already started planning my 100 Summits climbs. The hyakumeizan are scattered across all four of Japan’s major islands, meaning each mountain presents not only a physical challenge but a logistical one as well. Add in shifting weather patterns and the fact that (due to chemo) I won’t arrive in Japan until mid-May, and the puzzle becomes even more complex. Because of this I’ve started preparing a detailed profile for each mountain, containing not only trail and climbing information (for example, whether I’ll need a helmet, climbing poles, or other special gear) but access