New York is a city that never sleeps, is always changing and never fails to surprise the unwary. A city that is renowned for its finance and tourism industries, you might be forgiven for forgetting that there is an entire food production world operating within the city limits. Author Robin Schulman aims to change that memory lapse.
In this very thick, obvious labour of love, Schulman looks at New Yorkers past and present who each have a particular story to tell as to why they are keeping bees, refining sugar and countless other food production activities. In the big city where anonymity is invariably inevitable a number of personalities shine out through their relatively uncommon occupations and activities.
Of course, food production has to take place somewhere and this happens also within the New York city limits, yet the activities showcased by Schulman are not owned by megacorps and neither are they just hobbies by the eccentric or over-enthusiastic.
Take for example the rooftop beekeeper mentioned in this book. He has hives dotted all over the city in what would be prized penthouse locations with a price to match for humans. It seems surreal that he might be travelling with beekeeper garb clanking from his belt as he rides the subway, yet the majority of New Yorkers fail to register this possibly strange sight. Sometimes when driving his pickup truck, complete with bees “hovering” above the truck’s flat bed, he is an apian Pied Piper with his own mini swarm for company. Yet this does not ordinarily generate much of a response either, other than the odd comment from a cop who is more used to people carrying drugs about than honey and their stinging protectors.
The book is full of interesting colourful tales that beggar belief. Who would have thought that someone would have started a fruit and vegetable garden as a front for an illegal gambling operation… but they did. Maybe the gardening bug became a little too addictive as the garden remains well-tended and in operation even if other former activities are best forgotten.
There are countless many other examples. All different, charming, engaging and strangely addictive in their own right. This is not a recipe or food book, neither is it a typical tourist book, yet the reader is drawn in to the quirky, different, personal style of the New York “food producers” and their rather unique, special surroundings. The author has expertly, lovingly weaved together all the different tales, folklore and happenings for a rather enjoyable, dreamy read. At a time when cooks often focus about their ecological footprint, how organic an ingredient might be and other such stuff, often the real, quirky personal stories fall by the wayside. This is a pleasing antidote to that.
It is hard to think who would not like this book. If you like fiction books this could be a great read as, whilst certainly not a fictitious work, it could almost be though with the twists and turns of the various stories. For the lover of facts, reading will be punctuated with many pauses whilst the enormity of a given situation is taken into account. A little something for everyone. An ideal read also when travelling, but look out for passing bees hitchin’ a ride.

Eat The City: A Tale of the Fishers, Foralers, Butchers, Farmers, Poultry Minders, Sugar Refiners, Cane Cutters, Beekeepers, Winemakers and Brewers Who Built New York, written by Robin Schulman and published by Crown Publishing Group. ISBN 9780307719058, 352 pages. Typical price: GBP15. YYYY.


// This review appeared in YUM.fi and is reproduced here in full with permission of YUM.fi. YUM.fi celebrates the worldwide diversity of food and drink, as presented through the humble book. Whether you call it a cookery book, cook book, recipe book or something else (in the language of your choice) YUM will provide you with news and reviews of the latest books on the marketplace. //