Another tome in the tradition of creative non-fiction with extreme characters. If you like Sebastien Jungers, Jon Krakauer and books like Born to Run...moreAnother tome in the tradition of creative non-fiction with extreme characters. If you like Sebastien Jungers, Jon Krakauer and books like Born to Run this one will titillate as well.This book is cleverly crafted with chapters ranging from the physics of waves, monster storms with their shipwrecks, to extreme,big wave surf riders like Laird Hamilton. This book captures the shock and awe of the ocean. Even if you are not a water-worshiper, you will respect the intelligence of the research and the excitement of the characters and their antics. Hang 100.(less)
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