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Notes for a Young Surfer
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Notes for a Young Surfer

2.5 of 5 stars 2.50  ·  rating details  ·  2 ratings  ·  1 review
This complex look at surf culture exploresits inherent masculinity, as well as the violence, racism, misogyny, turf wars, and homophobia that are as much a part ofthe sportasocean swells. Both a touching memoir and a sharp social critique, this analysis reveals the unwritten codes that rule all aspects of a surfer’s life—from body image and national identity to politics an ...more
Paperback, 240 pages
Published September 1st 2010 by Melbourne University Publishing (first published June 1st 2010)
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The Blurb Radio Show
Review by Blurb presenter Bernard Ryan
I confess I don't spend much time on sport - reading about it, watching it...much less playing it. It is, however, apparently one of our national obsessions. When I think of BOOKS and sport, I see the sellers' shelves are full of glossily-illustrated " biographies', etc. How many look beyond That Year or That Game or That Series or This personality? How many discuss where this 'obsession' fits into the people's collective psyche? I think of a classic from ye
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Erika Wilson
Erika Wilson marked it as to-read
Apr 30, 2013
Sam
Sam marked it as to-read
May 28, 2011
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