All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
by David Rensin (Goodreads author!)
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other reviews (showing 1-20 of 34)
I am not a surfer (I have poor balance). I am not a beach bum (although I do have an affinity for the ocean). I am not especially hip, young, or even posessing of an interest in youth/rebel culture. No, I'm perhaps the least likely person to read this book & love it. Except when you consider that I am a sucker for an inscrutable, unknowable man. Once you realize that, you can see why the story of the ever-elusive (both physically & personally) Miki Dora.
Rensin collects thousands...more
Rensin collects thousands...more
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Read in May, 2008
I've never surfed in my like and have only recently started having an interest in surfing as a subject. I knew very little about Miki Dora prior to reading this book. I found Dora to be a very interesting and complex subject. The author handled this complexity well by simply including all the seemingly contradictory aspects of Dora's life without taking sides. For virtually every label that can be placed on Dora the opposite can also be said. For much of the book I found Dora to be a pathe...more
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Read in July, 2008
"By adopting my particular type of self-imposed exile I can outdistance these scougers of mankind: those who believe in consciousness without existence and those who believe in existence without consciousness -- these caricatures who go to ludicrous lenghts to assert their own importance, their own grotesque, overblown ambition.
The preconceived, hypocritical values of these scourges are their calling cards to temples of mediocrity and cultural improverishment. These schizos are f...more
The preconceived, hypocritical values of these scourges are their calling cards to temples of mediocrity and cultural improverishment. These schizos are f...more
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Read in May, 2008
The writing in this book was fine, but I was completely bored by the subject. His life wasn't all that "audacious," and by the end I had concluded he was a whiner, a bum, and probably a racist and anti-semite. Why did I keep reading a biography of someone who thought swastikas were an okay decorative element? I don't know.
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I loved this bio - read it in about 3 days. Is especially good if you're into Southern California surf culture, but is still worthwhile even if you're not because this guy really had a strange life.
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bookshelves:
i-wrote-it
Coming in hardcover on April 8 2008.
For more info go to: www.tellmeeverything.com
For more info go to: www.tellmeeverything.com
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