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Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance
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Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance

3.99  ·  Rating Details ·  205 Ratings  ·  19 Reviews
This is the completely revised and updated edition of Flash Training, the fundamental manual for physical and mental training for rock climbers. Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, the author has created a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury. ...more
Paperback, 224 pages
Published December 1st 2002 by FalconGuides
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Dec 15, 2014 Krista rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Shelves: climbing
This is by far the most helpful training book I have read for improving climbing performance and avoiding injury. I really like his "less is more if you plan it well" approach. He also focuses on technique first because strength, power, and endurance will only get you so far. The only drawback is that the narrative style makes the book a bit unwieldy as a reference in the gym. A take-out quick reference guide would be a nice addition. As it is, it's a good idea to take notes, plan, and practice ...more
Tyson Titensor
An excellent and thorough overview of training for climbing. This book would be useful for anyone looking to improve their climbing ability. The primary takeaway for me is that at my current climbing grade I need to be focused on climbing mileage and working on specific technique exercises and less focused on climbing-specific strength training. I'm already into my first 4-3-2-1 cycle and I am optimistic it will help me move beyond my current plateau and on to harder grades.
Nov 18, 2009 Chadfredlott rated it liked it
Climbing is a sport that relies on balance and intelligence as much as strength. The mental state of a climber will often make or break an ascent more dramatically than the ability to do one arm pullups.

Horst's book fills about a third of its pages describing visualization exercises that seem to come from Autogenetic therapy, Scientology, and other Mysticism. This is not to be considered a bad thing as these techniques actually do work.

If you find yourself suddenly drawn to the Secret, you have
Jan 11, 2016 Motus rated it liked it
Good book, but beware. This book focuses on strength training for climbing, not on teaching you how to move on rock or climbing technique.
12/21/13: I actually started reading this in earnest today (had just been browsing exercises in it up to this point) because I'm gonna be competing in the Gay Games next summer! Woot! And while I would've guessed that my main climbing issue right now is lack of physical strength, I did the self-assessment in chapter two and turns out that my biggest problems are lack of technical skills and lack of mental focus/fortitude (i.e., I'm still scared as shit to make big moves). Oops! Definitely got wo ...more
Jay Logan
Feb 20, 2015 Jay Logan rated it really liked it
Much more in depth than how to climb 5.12. A good read with no fluff
Sabina Simons
Apr 28, 2016 Sabina Simons rated it liked it
Shelves: library, climbing
Good book on training.
Jan 02, 2015 Tomek rated it liked it
Absolutely essential for the climber who is focused on performance. Horst provides an excellent background on mental training, moving to exercise physiology and sport specific training, before diving into nutrition and recovery. Well organized and well written.

Edit: I just read the second edition of this book. Although there is some additional information, it is pretty much the same. There is some more focus on technique, but if you're interested in that, check out Self-Coached Climber.
Sep 02, 2012 Loucaspapa rated it it was amazing

Excellent climbing book, covering every aspect relevant to athlete; mental, physical, technical, nutritional and recovering. Eric J. Horst blends his knowledge and experience on climbing in a unique, personal way that make Eric your perfect climbing mentor. I absolutely suggest this book and I'm looking forward to reading more if his climbing series books.
excellent book for the climber ready to move up a grade in climbing. The training cycles were well explained, with numerous exercises to choose from. I have been putting the 4-3-2-1 cycle to use (week 5!) and already feel much stronger.
Oct 15, 2009 Mike rated it it was amazing
The detailed plans for training specific muscle groups and injury prevention were excellent. It lacked in talking about technique (at all), but that wasn't the point of the book. It's definitely a 'bible' type book to follow
Do I need a climbing book? I'm a competitive climber...and I read...but do I really need to be hanging off of Half Dome in my Portaledge, trying to ignore the whistle of the air beneath me, reading a book on...climbing?
Bernd Schiffer
Jan 14, 2016 Bernd Schiffer rated it liked it
I liked the detailed explanations of the climbing techniques, but I missed more advice on how to create a good training plan. Also the writing style is sometimes a bit lengthy and could be more to the point.
Homa Faridi
Dec 23, 2014 Homa Faridi rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Fantastic and the most comprehensive book on climbing. It is like a reference book for me, I keep going through chapters every now and then.
Jan 05, 2016 Gally rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Recommended to Gally by: ewoo, Z
Special thanks to E and Z for this birthday present :D Climb on!
Feb 07, 2013 Valia rated it liked it
Shelves: skills, kcls, pe
For serious climbers it must be a treasure. But not for me (yet).
Dec 27, 2010 jackie marked it as to-read
putting this aside -- i'll have to come back to it later =)
Kevin H.
Mar 18, 2011 Kevin H. rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
A bit dry, but highly informative.
Michael Economy
Oct 01, 2012 Michael Economy rated it it was amazing  ·  review of another edition
Shelves: climbing
Very comprehensive.
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