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Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance
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Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance

3.98 of 5 stars 3.98  ·  rating details  ·  121 ratings  ·  13 reviews
This is the completely revised and updated edition of Flash Training, the fundamental manual for physical and mental training for rock climbers. Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, the author has created a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury. ...more
Paperback, 224 pages
Published December 1st 2002 by FalconGuides
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Climbing is a sport that relies on balance and intelligence as much as strength. The mental state of a climber will often make or break an ascent more dramatically than the ability to do one arm pullups.

Horst's book fills about a third of its pages describing visualization exercises that seem to come from Autogenetic therapy, Scientology, and other Mysticism. This is not to be considered a bad thing as these techniques actually do work.

If you find yourself suddenly drawn to the Secret, you have
12/21/13: I actually started reading this in earnest today (had just been browsing exercises in it up to this point) because I'm gonna be competing in the Gay Games next summer! Woot! And while I would've guessed that my main climbing issue right now is lack of physical strength, I did the self-assessment in chapter two and turns out that my biggest problems are lack of technical skills and lack of mental focus/fortitude (i.e., I'm still scared as shit to make big moves). Oops! Definitely got wo ...more
Absolutely essential for the climber who is focused on performance. Horst provides an excellent background on mental training, moving to exercise physiology and sport specific training, before diving into nutrition and recovery. Well organized and well written.

Edit: I just read the second edition of this book. Although there is some additional information, it is pretty much the same. There is some more focus on technique, but if you're interested in that, check out Self-Coached Climber.

Excellent climbing book, covering every aspect relevant to athlete; mental, physical, technical, nutritional and recovering. Eric J. Horst blends his knowledge and experience on climbing in a unique, personal way that make Eric your perfect climbing mentor. I absolutely suggest this book and I'm looking forward to reading more if his climbing series books.
excellent book for the climber ready to move up a grade in climbing. The training cycles were well explained, with numerous exercises to choose from. I have been putting the 4-3-2-1 cycle to use (week 5!) and already feel much stronger.
The detailed plans for training specific muscle groups and injury prevention were excellent. It lacked in talking about technique (at all), but that wasn't the point of the book. It's definitely a 'bible' type book to follow
Do I need a climbing book? I'm a competitive climber...and I read...but do I really need to be hanging off of Half Dome in my Portaledge, trying to ignore the whistle of the air beneath me, reading a book on...climbing?
Bernd Schiffer
I liked the detailed explanations of the climbing techniques, but I missed more advice on how to create a good training plan. Also the writing style is sometimes a bit lengthy and could be more to the point.
Adri Nurellari
It is quite comprehensive and provides great advices which I have already started to put in practice
For serious climbers it must be a treasure. But not for me (yet).
Dec 27, 2010 jackie marked it as to-read
putting this aside -- i'll have to come back to it later =)
Kevin H.
A bit dry, but highly informative.
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