Just Food: Where Locavores Get It Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly

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Just Food: Where Locavores Get It Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly

3.58 of 5 stars 3.58 · rating details · 283 ratings · 82 reviews

We suffer today from food anxiety, bombarded as we are with confusing messages about how to eat an ethical diet. Should we eat locally? Is organic really better for the environment? Can genetically modified foods be good for you?

JUST FOOD does for fresh food what Fast Food Nation (Houghton Mifflin, 2001) did for fast food, challenging conventional views, and cutting throu...more

Hardcover, 222 pages

Published August 26th 2009 by Little, Brown and Company (first published 2009)

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Apr 16, 2011 Richard rated it 5 of 5 stars

Shelves: environment, non-fiction, social-political, food

Late breaking addition: Want to read the micro-version of this book? Check out the editorial, Math Lessons for Locavores in the New York Times, August 19, 2010. It doesn’t get into the complexities that McWilliams does, but it encapsulates the first chapter of this book quite nicely.

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In Just Food, James McWilliams goes all heretical on his former fellow-travelers in the food-reform-movement cabal. He looks a bit deeper into the global political realit...more

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Richard OK, I'm kind of annoyed here. I put a lot of effort into that review, and when I do that I always hope to see people discussing the book and, perhaps,...more
updated Jul 08, 2010 05:11pm

Damselindistress Oops!

I’m sorry Richard, it was a very thoughtful review and much appreciated. But it’s just that I can’t take this McWilliams to heart on a personal l...more
Jul 09, 2010 03:11am

Feb 21, 2011 Zelda rated it 4 of 5 stars · review of another edition

I was pretty happy to be finished with the book. It starts out pretty hot with a no-holds barred butchering of the sacred cows of responsible eating. Food miles? Bollocks. Organic? Schmorganic. Frankenfood? It's what's for dinner! I was feasting on the charry remnants of those slaughtered heifers of hoity-toity loco-vorianism when the fun came to a screeching halt. The author thinks we shouldn't eat meat. At all. Ever. Oops.

But, he knows we will so he has some ideas about that. And he has numbe...more

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Nov 18, 2009 Lena rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: non-fiction

Let me begin this review by saying that the subtitle of this book – Where Locavores Get it Wrong – is a bit misleading. Author James McWilliams isn't on a rampage against locavorism per se, but rather against overly simplistic "solutions" to the incredibly complex problem of how to feed our planet's 7 billion-and-still-growing population in a way that is truly environmentally sustainable.

McWilliams is a history professor down in Austin and a former locavore himself. But one day, he found himsel...more Let me begin this review by saying that the subtitle of this book – Where Locavores Get it Wrong – is a bit misleading. Author James McWilliams isn't on a rampage against locavorism per se, but rather against overly simplistic "solutions" to the incredibly complex problem of how to feed our planet's 7 billion-and-still-growing population in a way that is truly environmentally sustainable.

McWilliams is a history professor down in Austin and a former locavore himself. But one day, he found himself giving in to nagging concerns that he was "doing little more than salving my conscience by buying overpriced tomatoes and cooking with parsnips when the weather got chilly." Those doubts led him to do some serious research into food production and come to some unorthodox, yet ultimately hopeful conclusions.

He begins his discussion with an examination of the "food miles" concept. It seems to make so much sense – purchasing food close to where you live cuts down on transportation and thus global warming and is therefore a good thing. The problem, however, is that transportation actually accounts for only 11% of the energy used to get something to your table. Because more than half of that energy goes to production, those wishing to reduce their carbon footprint would be much better served to study production methods and make choices based on that information instead. In one dramatic example, he points out that "it is four times more energy-efficient for London consumers to buy grass-fed lamb imported by ship from New Zealand than it is to buy grain-fed lamb raised locally." In addition, a ruthless commitment to buying local may work out well for you if you happen to live in an area capable of abundant food production, but it begins to break down when you start thinking about people who live in, say, Arizona, or impoverished people in developing countries who depend upon exporting their crops for survival.

The next sacred cow McWilliams goes after is organic farming. While he thinks the organic movement has accomplished a great deal in the last few decades, it is by no means free of environmental problems. While bucolic photos of rural landscapes may grace the packages of food sold organically, the reality is that any kind of farming, be it organic or conventional, is all about interfering with nature. Bugs that are not killed with synthetic pesticides still have to be dealt with, and just because organic growers use compounds already found in nature doesn't mean they're not poison. In addition, refraining from using weed killers may make organic seem better for the soil, but not using chemicals to kill weeds results in significantly more tillage, which contributes to problems with soil erosion.

McWilliams makes clear that he's not trying to dis organic by raising these concerns, but rather to counter the "inflated claim that it's the only alternative to today's wasteful conventional production." He is searching for a golden mean that recognizes the benefits of organic practices but can also make use of those aspects of conventional agriculture that have proven beneficial. Towards that end, he then examines the issue of genetically modified crops. McWillliams encourages us to move beyond our knee-jerk reaction to "Frankenfoods" and really examine the science behind these crops, which, while not risk-free, are significantly safer than they've been portrayed in the popular media. He makes a compelling and detailed argument that these risks are well worth the benefits on offer and that, responsibly managed, GM crops can increase yields and biodiversity, reduce tillage and toxic chemical use and preserve landscapes, all while feeding billions of people in a way that organic alone will simply never be able to do.

From there, McWilliams moves on to the touchy subject of meat production. He outlines in gruesome detail the enormous environmental costs not only of factory farms, but also of those of more righteous-sounding, grass-fed livestock operations. While the later are an improvement over the former in terms of energy used for production (not to mention ethics), grass-fed animals actually contribute dramatically more methane to the atmosphere and, on any sort of scale, are still very destructive to the land. The underlying issue is that land-based animals are astoundingly poor converters of energy (conventional cattle require 33 calories of input for every 1 produced), resulting in a hugely inefficient system that McWilliams argue we simply cannot afford on a planet where both population and meat consumption are growing at exponential rates. Eat meat if you must, he says, but know that the most effective thing you can do to reduce your food footprint is to treat it like caviar and eat a lot less.

McWilliams believes the future of affordable and environmentally sustainable protein lies in aquaculture. If you've heard any of the horror stories about fish farms, this may come as a surprise, and McWilliams does not shy away from discussing the terrible problems caused by these operations, particularly in developing countries with no environmental regulation. With the exception of salmon and shrimp, however, American fish farms are getting a decent environmental mark, with home-grown catfish, tilapia and trout doing better than average. What was most fascinating to me about this chapter, however, was his discussion of the infant industry of fish-based polyculture, closed systems that integrate freshwater fish and plant production. These operations are experiencing a bonanza of environmentally-friendly, high-yield production that holds enormous promise.

There are, of course, major hurdles to be overcome in the process of creating a sustainable and environmentally friendly food system, one of the biggest of which is the elimination of the perverse subsidy system that actually encourages food producers to engage in wasteful and destructive practices. McWilliams touches briefly on the importance of activism in eliminating these subsidies, but doesn't go into much detail on this subject. Instead, he uses his closing chapter to return to the biggest problem with locavorism, which is that if you really want to be an environmentalist, you have to think about not just how to feed yourself and your neighbors, but everyone in the world. It's a lot easier to slap a "buy local" bumper sticker on the car than it is to try to wrap the mind around the complex and often counter-intuitive lessons he reveals here, and there were times when he went into more technical detail than I really needed to know. Despite that fact, I think this is an important book for anyone who is seriously concerned about sustainable eating. It's my first on the subject, so I don't know how he compares with Michael Pollan, but if anybody out there has read both authors, I'd love to hear.
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Jun 12, 2013 Nick Angelis rated it 4 of 5 stars

Like any book on the economics and ecology of our food supply, Just Food is deliciously controversial, offering a bounty of subjects that at some point are sure to displease everyone who eats. McWilliams doesn't really marinate on the theme of health, which is acceptable since it would make his already complex theories as indigestible as GMO soybeans. Whether you agree with his tenets or not, this is a necessary book because the call for a middle ground between obnoxiously opulent organic and fa...more

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Nov 04, 2012 Mike Rooney rated it 3 of 5 stars

Pretty good book. Challenges the conventional farm system and locavorism. Basically seeks to get people to realize there aren't easy, pat answers to the question of how we can have a just and compassionate food system that doesn't further climate change and also produces enough food to feed the 9 to 10 billion people that will inhabit this planet in the near future. One of his better points is that simply deciding to eat as much local food as possible is too simplistic of a guiding rule for just...more

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May 29, 2012 Andrew Breslin rated it 3 of 5 stars

McWilliams is an excellent researcher. He has some very worthwhile ideas. And he seems to have a genuinely balanced perspective. As unconventional as it is in our increasingly polarized society, he swims against the current of schismogenesis and attempts to actually discuss and raise awareness of agricultural issues, rather than preaching to one of two choirs who mostly scream at one another when they interact at all. It's really a shame that the book is so astoundingly boring.

Maybe that's not f...more

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May 06, 2012 Sara rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: food-cookbooks, sustainability-green-living

In this book, James McWilliams addresses the new wave of foodies and concerned shoppers trying to make informed decisions about local vs. organic vs. sustainable, and whether these labels really mean anything when slapped on a whole variety of products at the grocery store and farmer’s markets. His primary argument is that “local” does not equal sustainable or the best choice overall. He looks at the capability of land and climate to produce local foods, equipment and transportation costs, and t...more

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Dec 04, 2011 Laurie rated it 5 of 5 stars

The subtitle of this book is “Where Locavores Get it Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly”, but it’s not just locavores that McWilliams think have it wrong. Not wrong, really- more that locavores, and everyone else, really, haven’t thought it through far enough.

The problem with basing how environmentally sound a food is on simply ‘food miles’- how far a food is transported from growing point to your plate- is that it leaves out a lot of information. A vegetable grown within 25 miles of yo...more The subtitle of this book is “Where Locavores Get it Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly”, but it’s not just locavores that McWilliams think have it wrong. Not wrong, really- more that locavores, and everyone else, really, haven’t thought it through far enough.

The problem with basing how environmentally sound a food is on simply ‘food miles’- how far a food is transported from growing point to your plate- is that it leaves out a lot of information. A vegetable grown within 25 miles of your home is local, but there is no guarantee that it was sustainably grown. The grower could be dousing the fields with hazardous chemicals, allowing the soil to blow or wash away, or using huge amounts of oil to till and tend the fields. Those things have to be factored in. Buying your food from a grower that is further away, but uses sustainable growing practices, may actually be better for the environment. Also, in most places, it would be very difficult to find local sources of a varied and healthy diet, especially year round. In our area, we have a very short growing season, most of the area is unsuitable for growing grains, and the fruit in our diets would be limited to apples, pears, prune plums and cherries.

McWilliams stresses sustainability. In doing this, he goes down some unusual paths. While he is all for organic methods, he points out that tilling- the method used for wee control in most organic fields- is bad for the soil. A judicious use of an herbicide that breaks down quickly-like Round Up- might actually do less damage to the environment. And the best way to use Round Up in a field is if the desired crop is resistant to that herbicide- in other words, genetically modified. The author has great hopes for the future of GM crops- he sees them as a very good way to get more food out of the earth with less environmental damage. Needless to say, this stance flies in the face of the accepted doctrine of the environmental movement.

While McWilliams’ ideas about GMO foods, herbicide use, and food transportation are new and controversial, one of his ideas is a revamping of a 1970s one. He contends that to be able for the earth to feed the constantly enlarging population, we will have to either stop eating land based meat or cut back drastically, and rely mainly on plant foods for our protein. This idea was brought to public attention by Frances Moore Lappe in ‘Diet For a Small Planet’. It’s a simple thing: land growing feed for animals like pigs or cows uses more resources than land growing grains and beans for humans does. Converting protein via a cow is less efficient than giving that protein directly to humans. So, if everyone converted to vegetarianism, there would be more food available to humans. But that hasn’t happened in the 40 years since Lappe proposed it, and while more people are going that way today, I don’t see any mass conversion in the near future. And McWilliams doesn’t address dairy or egg production; I have no idea where that lays on the efficiency chart. He is a strong proponent of aquaculture as the future of animal protein, but is quick to point out how poorly it is being done in many instances.

What it comes down to is that there are no simple answers, and we can’t rely only on the data that supports what makes us feel good; we have to look at all sides of the issue. McWilliams supports localism and organic methods, but he points out that these things alone won’t feed the growing population and sustain the earth. What I’m left thinking is that we need more studies- studies not run by Monsanto or other large producers, but independent ones that will help us find a common, middle ground of organics and science. Read the book. It’s disturbing and thought provoking.
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Aug 20, 2009 Susan Albert rated it 4 of 5 stars

Just Foods is an important book in the continuing (and continually escalating) debate over how we should grow our food and what we should eat. Environmental historian and reformed locavore James McWilliams, invites us to think logically and dispassionately about some of the most important food issues of our time--and of the future. Having read two of McWilliams' previous books, I expected a controversial, detailed, and well-documented discussion. I wasn't disappointed.

In summary, McWilliams arg...more

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Feb 22, 2010 Linnea rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: food, non-fiction

An interesting and worthwhile read, McWilliams takes on a lot of assumptions about the environmental benefits of eating locally and other issues of responsible eating and points out some unexpected problems--especially for feeding the world responsibly. He makes some particularly good points about genetically modified crops and higher yields/lower land use. He also stresses the value of expanding healthy fish farming as a good solution to some of the food crises facing the world. However, he alm...more

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May 10, 2012 Diane rated it 5 of 5 stars

I'm giving this book five stars because I learned so much from it. I've been an organic locavore foodie for a long time now, box-toting CSA member, a big Pollan fan, etc. But from McWilliams I got a much broader perspective on the food challenges facing the world's 7 billion-and-growing population, as well as a clear sense of how limited small local organic operations are in offering the hope of feeding all of us sustainably. (& how lucky are Southern Californians in the year-round growing s...more

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May 18, 2010 Colette rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: food-systems

As it turns out, eating is political and complicated.

Most locavores, or people who think they're doing a good thing by shopping at their farmer's market will hate reading this and probably give up once things like subsidies and LCAs are discussed. Producing and distributing solely local food isn't an option for worldwide need, but McWilliams is smart enough to address the problems of conventional agriculture. The book attempts to find a "golden mean" between the elitism that's developing with th...more

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Feb 28, 2010 AJ rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: do-not-own, nonfiction, 2010

In Just Food, McWilliams tries to present a third way, a "golden mean" as he calls it, of agriculture and food production. Unfortunately, I found this book to fall short in many ways.

The first three chapters of the book cover locavorism, organic food and genetically modified organisms (GMOs). While hoping to find some third ground that is better than either extreme (organic vs. conventional, eating local vs. eating food trucked to Maine from Mexico), McWilliams resorts to reductionist arguments...more In Just Food, McWilliams tries to present a third way, a "golden mean" as he calls it, of agriculture and food production. Unfortunately, I found this book to fall short in many ways.

The first three chapters of the book cover locavorism, organic food and genetically modified organisms (GMOs). While hoping to find some third ground that is better than either extreme (organic vs. conventional, eating local vs. eating food trucked to Maine from Mexico), McWilliams resorts to reductionist arguments basically against both sides without presenting a third option. He also remains optimistic that current systems of free trade and profit motive will fix things, even though he claims to dislike large corporations such as Monsanto. Ultimately, his arguments fall short and offer no convincing solution to the problem, while unnecessarily vilifying the efforts that many people make to chose local, organic, non GMO food as part of an overall environmentally friendly lifestyle.

Next, McWilliams talks about meat production, arguing that it is inherently bad for the environment, and even the small sustainable farms that exist (such as Polyface Farms) wouldn't hold up on a global scale. As a vegan for environmental, animal rights and health reasons, I obviously agree with what McWilliams says. However, he still treats animals as products instead of beings, which may cause the vegetarian or vegan reading this book to be wary of this chapter.

Indeed, as I read the next chapter, about fish, I once again found his arguments to fall short. McWilliams refers to fish as "floating protein," which makes me wonder if he is aware that protein is fully available from plant-based sources, and fish consumption isn't required for a healthy diet. Dietary issues aside, McWilliams showcases a bunch of small scale aquaculture operations that are doing a good job, and promotes them as the way of the future. However, I wish McWilliams took his own advice from the previous chapter on meat to realize that, once the profit motive gets involved and large corporations step in to consolidate and reap profits, what now works as small scale aquaculture operations will become just as environmentally precarious as factory farms. That's not to say that there's no good future in aquaculture, but government regulations the likes of which do not currently exist would need to step in to ensure that aquaculture doesn't become the next environmental scourge. I believe it's easier to just stop eating fish along with other meat products.

Finally, McWilliams rallies against so-called perverse subsidies, which I think many who read this book can agree with. Lack of government regulations that allow Big Ag to get away with ruining our environment while producing food products of questionable safety is what leads many environmentally conscious people to shop locally and organic. The amount of transparency at a farmers' market, where one can directly question the farmer about her/his methods of farming is incomparable to the questionable content of a McDonalds hamburger or Lean Cuisine frozen meal.

It seems to me as if McWilliams feels he's the first person to make the connection between environmentalism and ending corporate subsidies. He also feels that the solution is financial incentives and entrepreneurship. Color me skeptical, but I'll continue to try and boycott Big Ag by buying locally from my farmers' market, growing my own food when I can, and buying organic.

Ultimately, I think McWilliams arguments are hit or miss, and would be better packaged with a more radical, anti-corporate agenda. However, I don't think that would have sold as many books because it wouldn't have lent itself to such an inflammatory subtitle ("Where locavores get it wrong and how we can truly eat responsibly") as well as painting locavorism as movement of food elitists who have no conception of global issues. It's unfortunate that the good messages in this book (end corporate subsidies, stop eating meat) are surrounded by lots of questionable content (synthetic fertilizers aren't that bad, GMOs are the only way to feed the starving masses). (less)

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Nov 24, 2009 Mitro Pietro rated it 3 of 5 stars

Very informative read that critically addresses the biggest problematic challenges towards mass-producing food in an ecologically sustainable manner on a global scale. The author does an excellent job of summarizing the pros and cons of certain food production methods, the lay science behind it, the economics of why it's done that way, and how to improve it. The author is a professor and his research sources are cited throughout the book.

It is, admittedly, not the most entertaining read, but tha...more

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Aug 25, 2009 Jessica N. rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: first-reads

I was intrigued by the title of this book, and was happy to discover that I won it via a Goodreads giveaway! Thanks!
I've always wondered if eating "local" was as fabulous as people say. Living in Washington state, we have many "green" people touting the joys of responsible eating. People are huge on eating local. I appreciated the fact that now, after reading this book, I don't feel so guilty and irresponsible for buying food that has been shipped in from far away places. Yes, I'll buy that appl...more

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Mar 27, 2013 Loren rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: environmentalism, economics, agrarian-studies

Goodreads Just Food four stars
I applaud this book. I thought because it was a few years old it would be outdated. Much to the contrary. It is a must read for anyone who claims to try to eat eco-responsibly. McWilliams is definitely the Skeptical Environmentalist of the food world, asking the tough questions and weighing a debate that should happen.
If you did not know that the world suddenly switching to a completely organic and localized food system on a global scale would result in mass starvat...more

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Mar 04, 2013 Becky marked it as to-read

I know I'm going to hate this book, but I'm interested in his arguments about conventional v. organic agribusiness and world food production and figure I should familiarize myself with the arguments of the "other side."

I'm already enraged by the tagline here though - DID YOU KNOW that "an imported tomato is more energy-efficient than a local greenhouse-grown tomato"?? Well, depends on the greenhouse-grown tomato - but yes, I did know this, and the locavore movement is not an excuse to not be a c...more

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Dec 22, 2011 Shawn rated it 3 of 5 stars

this book was good i thought about giving it 4 stars but could not bring my self to overlook the fact that he never thought to question If the solutions he was presenting where just putting off the collapse of our whole food system. I like reading an alternative point of view and like what he said about meat, organic food and local food. but felt like he adviods the hard fact that we are killing the earth and if we don't do some thing radical very soon it will be to late. I could not agree with...more

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Aug 15, 2009 Craig Baker rated it 3 of 5 stars

There is a lot to have to prcoess in this book. I felt the author did a good job with presenting the information. However I feel he should have used a prologue to present the different beliefs and terms a little better. Such as explaining in more detail what a locavore is, their positions, etc. When I started reading it I felt like I was living under a rock cause I didnt know what a locavore was or know some of the things the author lets on to think is common knowledge or household names or term...more

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May 24, 2013 Jamie rated it 4 of 5 stars

The author's main arguments for thinking beyond the simple organic/conventional, local/industrial mindset to find truly sustainable and efficient food production sufficient to feed a rapidly growing world population. He has a number of really good points. For example, that transportation actually makes up on a small part of the overall energy expenditure for most produce. And that sometimes organic methods can be less sustainable from a holistic perspective than conventional methods. There's a b...more

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Feb 27, 2013 Grace rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: nonfiction

I actually finished this book a few weeks ago, but wasn't sure how to review it initially. This isn't because I didn't like it: I actually loved it so much that I dramatically changed my eating habits after reading it. I think it's because I liked it so much that I didn't want to write an unworthy review.

The basic argument of the book is that the current emphasis in ethical eating on consuming "locally grown" food is wasteful, inefficient, unsustainable from both an environmental and population...more I actually finished this book a few weeks ago, but wasn't sure how to review it initially. This isn't because I didn't like it: I actually loved it so much that I dramatically changed my eating habits after reading it. I think it's because I liked it so much that I didn't want to write an unworthy review.

The basic argument of the book is that the current emphasis in ethical eating on consuming "locally grown" food is wasteful, inefficient, unsustainable from both an environmental and population perspective, and ultimately a blind alley. (For example, he points out that transportation consumes a measly 11% of all energy consumed in the 'life cycle' of food; home preparation consumes 25%!! Switching to more fuel-efficient methods of cooking would be a much more sound way to make a positive environmental impact.)

To eat in an ethical manner, McWilliams instead recommends the following (backed up by excellent, well-researched evidence):
1. worry about buying local; instead, buy crops from the region naturally most suited to grow them, even if that's thousands of miles away. In other words, the division of labor should be applied to the growing of food as well. Some locations will have to ship all of their food from elsewhere (like Tucson or Las Vegas); most will have to ship a large portion of their diet (like New York, which can only produce apples in sufficient quantities to feed its population).

2. Organic food is not that great. Thanks to inconsistent and deliberately vague regulation and enforcement, the designation "organic" does not necessarily mean anything meaningful. More importantly, even truly organic food does not solve the problems it purports to: organic food tends to consume more resources, not fewer; still uses extremely toxic and dangerous chemicals (albeit naturally derived); is not environmentally sustainable; and may actually be worse for the soil and natural environment.

3. Genetically modified crops are a wonderful solution to many problems, such as world hunger and malnutrition, the overuse of pesticides, and the destruction of the natural environment for cropland. We should encourage their use (and the development of new ones) whenever possible.

4. Eating meat is not environmentally sustainable and should be avoided, or at least only consumed on rare occasions. Factory farming is worst, but this is true even for grass-fed, free-range animals.
Freshwater fish farming, while not currently perfect, is a wonderful solution for producing protein for a growing population. He speaks especially highly of tilapia and catfish.

5. Agricultural subsidies and protectionism are wreaking havoc on both the environment and our food systems, and need to be eliminated. Greatly enhanced global trade of food should become the norm (see point #1).

I love all of these recommendations, and wholeheartedly agree with them. I had always had vague doubts about many aspects of the ethical food movement (in particular, relating to points #2 and #3), and it was wonderful to have my rather amorphous objections fleshed out and explained in a logical manner. I was already a huge believer in #6 (ever since B the economist explained to me WHY corn syrup is so ubiquitous in the US as a sweetener=corn subsides+sugar protectionism).

There were a few things I didn't like.

--McWilliams is an academic, which means (unlike, for example, Michael Pollan) he isn't much of a prose stylist. While the book is perfectly readable, it's a little bit repetitive and dry.
--McWilliams is very concerned with the ethics of food (what the 'just' in the title refers to). However, this very concern means he overlooks the main function of food: its taste. Tilapia and catfish in my experience are rather disgusting, which is going to be a major barrier in their widespread adoption. Similarly, a major reason to eat local produce is because it tastes much better (by a HUGE margin). McWilliams completely ignores these and all similar issues.(less)

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Jan 01, 2012 Katie rated it 1 of 5 stars · review of another edition

I picked up this book knowing that I probably would not agree with the content, but hoping that reading a different perspective would provide food for thought. The author introduces the book by describing his journey from a member of the locavore ideology to a more balanced view of food production. He wishes to provide arguments for a more balanced and global view of sustainable food production than can be provided by the elitist locavore movement. His first two chapters deal with problems assoc...more I picked up this book knowing that I probably would not agree with the content, but hoping that reading a different perspective would provide food for thought. The author introduces the book by describing his journey from a member of the locavore ideology to a more balanced view of food production. He wishes to provide arguments for a more balanced and global view of sustainable food production than can be provided by the elitist locavore movement. His first two chapters deal with problems associated with only focusing on food miles and organic growing. In these he makes some very good points, especially in regards to viewing organic vs. conventional as a continuum rather than completely polar opposites in which organic is always good and coventional is always bad. He supported his arguments fairly well and did, indeed give me some food for thought.

Unfortunately, the remainder of the book was not nearly as balanced and contained some serious flaws in logic. The chapter on genetically modified (GM) crops contained all the standard arguments for GM foods touted by the industry (and supported by industry research). For nearly every study he cites about the high yields of GM crops, low use of pesticides or equal amounts of nutrition compared to organically farmed crops I could pull up a study that cites the completed opposite. He also brushes aside the concern that GM crops will promote a race of superweeds and pesticide-resistant pests. Unfortunately, the news in the past month has contained several stories of these dire predictions coming true. He also glazes over the issue of reducing biodiversity and cross-pollination that has plagued the GM industry for years. I have to conclude that there is a more honest desire to feed the world and reduce pesticide use with GM crops that is often touted today in the anti-GM community, but the evidence cited does not, in my evaluation, override the inherent risks of GM crops.

The chapter the had the most flaws for me was where he argues for a massive reduction in meat consumption worldwide. The main issue I have with this chapter is that his arguments are based on changing criteria. He argues that nature doesn't always know best and a manged system can improve on nature, but then he talks about how animal grazing in nature is the most sustainable way to raise meat rather than humans corralling cows. A few pages later he then argues that wild meat is inherently unsafe, a conclusion he backs up with a study from the pork industry (can we say conflict of interest here?). The author also declares that livestock farming is one of the most environmentally degradating practices out there, although he seems to forget that in a former chapter he attacks monocrop farming and excessive use of pesticides and herbicides in a similar fashion. Now he declares that pastureland should be given over to vegetable crops. In his estimation vegetables and grains provide more nutrition than meat since meat is basically protein and nothing else (no vitamins, minerals, or carbohydrates). All I can say is that he doesn't cite any source for this information where I could pull up a pile of research studies and scientific articles that comprehensively refute this. Where I do agree with this author is that no one should be eating meat grown by conventional means (grain fed, confinement operations) and we should cut back on our meat consumption. However, we can eat meat as part of a healthy diet and this meat can be grown in sustainable ways.

The remainder of the book deals with aquatic farming (I don't know much about this) and subsidies, another topic I mostly agree with him on, although I don't agree with all his arguments.

Overall, I thought this book had a good purpose- to try to bring a balancing perspective to the increasingly opposed conventional vs. local/organic argument. However, I felt that the research and logical used to support most of his points were fairly weak and did not offer many convincing arguments to sway my opinions. Overall, it was a frustrating read and not very well researched.(less)

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Oct 10, 2012 Christy rated it 2 of 5 stars

Shelves: 2012, farming-life, re-read

A disclaimer: I only made it through the first chapter. I would like to try again, when I have calmed down a bit.

As someone who relies on the people around us to eat locally-grown organic produce, I probably have quite a different view than the author and most people who will read this book. That being said, the author made some sweeping generalizations about how we as Americans consume local goods. His claim that most people can't tell the difference between a store-bought tomato and a freshly...more

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Aug 21, 2011 Keith Akers rated it 4 of 5 stars · review of another edition

This is clearly an important book, and the "star-rating" system doesn't really do justice to it. So if you're wondering whether to read this book, consider it a five-star review. It has some flaws, but as someone said of Kant (if I recall correctly), the mistakes of a great thinker are more valuable than a thousand correct platitudes from a lesser one.

McWilliams takes on one of the hottest topics in food politics, the whole question of the "locavores" who emphasize the need for eating locally. I...more This is clearly an important book, and the "star-rating" system doesn't really do justice to it. So if you're wondering whether to read this book, consider it a five-star review. It has some flaws, but as someone said of Kant (if I recall correctly), the mistakes of a great thinker are more valuable than a thousand correct platitudes from a lesser one.

McWilliams takes on one of the hottest topics in food politics, the whole question of the "locavores" who emphasize the need for eating locally. In his first chapter, he demolishes the whole "food miles" paradigm. Without even pausing for a breath, he then proceeds to take on organic agriculture, genetically engineered foods, land based animals, aquaculture, and ecological economics.

His approach is nonideological. He just wants to preserve the environment and feed the world, and thinks we need technology to do that. On the other hand, unlike Stewart Brand (who comes across as essentially an apostate from environmentalism) he is not uncritical of technology nor of the human institutions that use it. He sees a place for both chemical agriculture and even GMOs. But he is quite scathing of meat production. Only aquaculture -- and only some aquaculture, at that -- escapes his wrath.

I liked his critique of localism and of eating animals. He clearly understands the problem of organic agriculture -- it's valuable, but does it scale up to feeding the world? This same problem applies to GMOs. GMO technology is now in the hands of private for-profit corporations who are making a mess of things, but in principle, according to McWilliams, GMO technology could be used for good rather than evil.

Here is where the problems with the book start -- with his treatment (or non-treatment) of ecological economics. He says somewhere early on that when he wrote the book, he in effect "threw down his hand" when he felt his case was strong enough to be published. This isn't bad advice for a magazine writer: if your case is better than anything that's currently widely circulated, throw it out there. But the problem is that our economic system is fundamentally flawed and is without mainstream critics. Yes, his case is better than anything currently out there, but that's not saying all that much. I wish he had looked deeper. He might have written a very different kind of book.

He essentially presupposes the case for continued economic growth. Uh, it's not going to happen. We'll be lucky if we ever even get back to the state of the world economy in 2005, much less expand the economy beyond that point. Peak oil will see to that. And our agricultural system depends on oil, and consequently won't be expanding very much further in any event. Food prices and oil prices are rising in tandem; the only thing that will save us from starvation because of high food prices, will be another recession or depression, which will lower food prices (which the poor still may not be able to afford, though).

The first consideration of ecological economics is "how big can our economy get?" (Before, that is, resource limitations such as land, oil, etc. restrict further economic growth.) He doesn't really address this and while I'm sure he is aware of it, it doesn't enter into the discussion either in chapter 6 ("Merging Ecology and Economy") or anywhere else. Our agricultural system is already in ecological overshoot and we need to address the question, how much food can be sustainably produced at all? And how many people can be fed in such a world?

If he had addressed these questions, he would probably come up with an answer of about 2 to 3 billion. (I'm speaking off the top of my head here -- I need to write my own book to fully explain this statement.) And THAT'S assuming we're using technology to the max and we're all vegans. We can probably support more than that for a while -- perhaps quite a while -- but inevitably there will be a population crash. The original "Limits to Growth" study set this date at about 2050 in the "main" (business as usual) scenario. The question of how big our agriculture can get is extremely significant, and how we can get from where we are now to a sustainable agriculture (and a lower population) is even more perplexing. No one is really talking about it.

I hope that McWilliams will turn his considerable analytical talents in this direction. It is a most difficult task because there is currently no popular version of "ecological economics" out there. There is some technical academic stuff from Herman Daly, et. al. (whom he quotes at least once, as I recall), but we lack even the most basic tools to discuss this subject intelligently in public. Instead, all he can do is talk about "perverse subsidies" -- which is fine as far as it goes, but doesn't go nearly far enough.(less)

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Nov 30, 2011 Kate Lawrence rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: food-issues

Want to get a lively discussion going among people who care about food sustainability? This book will do it!
The author hits the ground running with a spot-on sendup of the locavore mania, and not a moment too soon. Then we get chapters on organics and GM food, which I'm still digesting (pardon the pun). I'd thought it was clear that organics should be embraced and GM foods opposed, but here are considerations that were new to me. The uncompromising chapter on livestock had me cheering "You tell...more Want to get a lively discussion going among people who care about food sustainability? This book will do it!
The author hits the ground running with a spot-on sendup of the locavore mania, and not a moment too soon. Then we get chapters on organics and GM food, which I'm still digesting (pardon the pun). I'd thought it was clear that organics should be embraced and GM foods opposed, but here are considerations that were new to me. The uncompromising chapter on livestock had me cheering "You tell 'em!" (disclaimer: I've been vegan for 23 years)and wondering if the author is also a vegan. Not yet, we find out: he tells us he's given up eating land animals, but still looks favorably on aquaculture, as detailed in the following chapter. The last topic is agricultural subsidies; once again, he nails it.
Two major omissions jumped out at me. First, the possibility of converting urban yards into food gardens was not even mentioned. Given the total amount of land taken up by yards, this could be important. If we could incentivize food gardening, vegetables and fruits grown in American yards would not have to be provided by farmers, which would mean more food to feed the world. During World War II, victory gardens produced up to 40% of all vegetables grown in the U.S.
Second, in the aquaculture chapter, assertions of sustainability were all based on comparisons between aquaculture and livestock agriculture. Livestock is so outrageously wasteful that almost any other kind of production would look good next to it. What we need in order to be convinced are comparisons between aquaculture and plant-food agriculture; i.e. between a diet with fish and a vegan diet. If aquaculture can't compare favorably here, and because fish-eating has negative health and ethical aspects as well, why should we give it even a moment's consideration?
The author seems to think that veganism is too difficult; he writes, "As much as I would like to push a completely meatless diet, I know that such a change is virtually impossible to achieve on even a small scale." Why so? Several million people in the U.S. and elsewhere have been following it for years, with more coming on board daily. McWilliams needs to look no further than his own city of Austin to see a textbook example of an unlikely population adopting vegan eating: the firefighters of Engine 2, whose new diet was recognized on Oprah and in the New York Times, among other media. I'd say firefighters are about as far as possible from the Skinny Bitch demographic, yet they made the switch and are much healthier for it. Furthermore, who would ever have thought that the fast-food-loving Bill Clinton would adopt a plant-based diet?
There are those who stand back, believing that a big change is too difficult, and others who are busy putting that change into practice. C'mon, James McWilliams, join the vegan community. You know you want to.
Later note: I learned that McWilliams is now a vegan advocate.

(less)

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Jun 07, 2011 Greg rated it 4 of 5 stars · review of another edition

It points to the seemingly obvious (in hindsight) conclusion that there is no 'simple' solution to the problem of sustainable eating. The point is made clearly and emphatically. I knew a lot of the objections to organic and local eating as a sustainability plan going in, but the main takeaway for me was how environmentally destructive it is to consume meat. Everyone has an idea that this is probably the case, but probably have little idea of how much of a negative impact this act has. For exampl...more It points to the seemingly obvious (in hindsight) conclusion that there is no 'simple' solution to the problem of sustainable eating. The point is made clearly and emphatically. I knew a lot of the objections to organic and local eating as a sustainability plan going in, but the main takeaway for me was how environmentally destructive it is to consume meat. Everyone has an idea that this is probably the case, but probably have little idea of how much of a negative impact this act has. For example, I was not aware of the tremendous levels of greenhouse gases emitted by farm critters (though the stench should probably have given it away).

That's not to say that McWilliams gives a totally unbiased representation of the facts. For a fair-weather environmentalist like myself, this book leaves me totally aware that there are facts being left out of the story (though I honestly doubt that McWilliams has an agenda--I think it more likely that he chose to err on the side of simplicity and readability, or that the facts were unavailable). But being a half-hearted conservativist, I don't really know what it is that McWilliams isn't telling me. A couple of ideas that are not thoroughly explored are the health implications of the type of sustainable diet that McWilliams is suggesting. It's not enough to assume that the transition to veg-heavy diets would be seamless and healthy.

Just Food> does a good job of bringing up alternative considerations in the sustainable eating game that most people don't think about. For example, most local producers don't benefit from efficient transportation or processing, and in many cases the environmental impact of consuming those foods is worse than the cost of consuming a food grown in another country. This should be a relief to those of us who cringe at the sight of expensive locally-grown produce at the supermarket, and feel bad selecting the dirt-cheap, high-quality produce shipped in from Argentina.

The book is never too technical for the average reader, yet never quite technical enough for someone who is doubtful of incredible claims. For example, at one point, McWilliams notes that there is the potential to produce 35000 pounds of edible fish flesh per acre per year with sustainable aquaculture, compared with 75 lbs per acre per year of beef. That's a startling number, but it's presented flippantly and without justification. Though McWilliams quickly moves on to discussing more down-to-earth numbers, a quick search on current aquaculture yields places excellent harvests at around 2500 lbs of edible fish flesh per acre for catfish, which are very amenable to farming. This is a far, far cry from the 35000 lbs quoted in this text, though still impressive. I guess I can hope that was just a typo.

McWilliams main point, which I wish he would have made more emphatically, in bold text, is that there is currently not enough information available in order to enjoy a definitely sustainable diet.(less)

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May 15, 2011 David rated it 3 of 5 stars · review of another edition

Shelves: food-writing

This was a good, if not difficult, book for me to read. I am open to hearing different opinions on the subject of the future of food, agribusiness vs. organics, GM seeds, etc., and I was excited to read a well-written book by a local author. I also think it's an extremely important subject and set of challenges and I care deeply about food and the planet. But in the end, what I didn't like about this book had nothing to do with the opinions or proposals set before us by the author, but something...more This was a good, if not difficult, book for me to read. I am open to hearing different opinions on the subject of the future of food, agribusiness vs. organics, GM seeds, etc., and I was excited to read a well-written book by a local author. I also think it's an extremely important subject and set of challenges and I care deeply about food and the planet. But in the end, what I didn't like about this book had nothing to do with the opinions or proposals set before us by the author, but something much simpler and more human: the tone of the author's voice.

McWilliams simply starts out the book with an unexplainable (to me) acrid tone towards the organic, local-foods consumer. Oddly, he almost demonizes them. That's a bit strange and ironic to me, as it's largely these people, the "localvores", who are responsible for the whole environment of change we are seeing in this country and beginning to see worldwide (he's almost kinder to agribusiness, in a way). So, in my opinion, not nearly enough credit was given to the fact that amazing changes are taking place right now--we're in a food revolution--and he might not even be writing a book about this subject if it weren't for the gains many others have made in, say, the last 10 or 15 years. New ideas are certainly welcome and I can even understand the author's annoyance with folks who pick up a drum and start beating it when they don't know the tune, but I'm still a bit offended (and I'm not a staunch localvore, either). I also don't believe that localvores are unrealistic, either. Most of the localvores I know don't buy all their locally; they buy what they can. And regardless of all the data McWilliams gives us, the carbon imprint on these local foods is very low. And what about supporting local businesses, local economy? This never gets a mention in the book.

Fortunately, McWillliams backs off and becomes noticeably kinder by Chapter Three, but I personally was still reeling from the obvious bitterness of the first few chapters. It's like meeting someone for the first time, have them insult you (or someone else, really) for an hour or two, and then want you to stay and listen to what they have to say. Well, that's too bad. I feel McWiliams may have alienated a good part of the audience he was trying to reach by not toning it down a bit. Big mistake. And why so angry, anyway?

Still, I stuck it out (I'm tough, I guess) and am willing to admit McWilliams is smart and makes some excellent points (his stance on meat consumption, for example, and aquaponics), many of them worth further discussion and worthy of public attention. He is also clear in his objectives for writing the book (which he sums up succinctly on pages 186-188, if you want to get right to the point). As he takes no side of the current food-politik fence, it's easy to see his position will not be a popular one (he's neither agribusiness or organic/go-local, but somewhere in between and neither). For one, I admire him for taking a different position and making each of us on both sides of the fence re-examine our positions and assumptions. I just wish he would have been a little bit kinder while doing it--so he would have reached a wider audience--which always helps when you're trying to inspire serious change...(less)

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Aug 03, 2011 Becky R. rated it 4 of 5 stars

Just Food is not for the faint of heart or causal reader. James E. McWilliams has written a strong argument about the misleading ideals being spread about the "locavore" movement and how it is causing consumers to vilify methods of production that could reduce costs and still save the environment. The book is heavy handed in its use of facts, data, and research, which gives it good backing, but makes for weighty reading.

McWilliams really has seven key arguments that he makes in the book:

* The...more Just Food is not for the faint of heart or causal reader. James E. McWilliams has written a strong argument about the misleading ideals being spread about the "locavore" movement and how it is causing consumers to vilify methods of production that could reduce costs and still save the environment. The book is heavy handed in its use of facts, data, and research, which gives it good backing, but makes for weighty reading.

McWilliams really has seven key arguments that he makes in the book:

* The "Food Miles" argument can actually hurt our local environment.
* Organic Agriculture with its small farming methods will not be able sustain a global population.
* A judicious use of Biotechnology and Chemicals should be our goal. (To produce the most possible per acre, in a safe and effective way.)
* Reduce tillage, which harms much needed topsoil.
* Integrate livestock and plant crops, for a functioning ecosystem that works together.
* Introduce more freshwater aquaculture to produce sustainable markets of fish without stripping the oceans.

Each of his arguments make real sense when backed with such strong research and evidence. Although the reading was a bit tough for a casual reader, with some general interest as I had, it is a great book for putting the "locavore" movement into perspective. In short, I thought that McWilliams felt like the moderate voice in the argument. Sometimes I feel like I have to become a radical in my diet and the way I live to really make a statement, and that can just be too big of a commitment. This book, however, explains why a more moderate approach to food and where it comes from might actually be saving us.

In a lot of ways, I still feel pretty helpless in any sort of global change. So here's my take away. This book is trying to solve a pretty big problem, on a grand scale, not just what I put on my table. Although he doesn't even really touch on health issues, what he says makes a lot of sense. He's not trying to tell us not to eat what we like, but he does show the value of eating more vegetables, fruits, and farm-raised fish. When we see how we used to eat, even fifty years ago, it just makes sense that we need to shift back to whole foods and less meat. If we could just shift to a healthier way of eating, the demand on markets would also change, so I suppose that being a smarter consumer could make a difference. That's the idea, right?(less)

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Jun 11, 2011 Anu Khosla rated it 4 of 5 stars · review of another edition

Shelves: current-affairs-and-politics, books-on-health

Really liked this book, this is a great next read for people who have read "Omnivore's Dilemma" and want another perspective on the issue of sustainable agriculture.

In particular, I thought his chapters on biotechnology and aquaculture were really great. I really appreciated that he tapped into where the environmental movement is sometimes at a crossroads with humanitarian and economic development goals.

Of course, there were points of disagreement for me with some of his ideas. In particular I...more

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Jul 02, 2011 Amber Anderson rated it 4 of 5 stars · review of another edition

Shelves: random-non-fiction

Interesting...Never put that much thought into conventional vs. organic in terms of environmental impact, but now I that I know that organic yields are consistently lower than conventional yields, and that natural pesticides can be just as (if not more so) harmful as conventional ones, I opt for conventional produce more often.

Of course, people who babble about "food miles" are often motivated by concerns over globalization, or "our cultish attraction to the fetish of localism", but usually the...more

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About James E. McWilliams

McWilliams is a historian and writer based in Austin, Texas. Books include Just Food: Where Locavores Get It Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly (Little, Brown) and A Revolution in Eating: How the Quest for Food Shaped America (Columbia University Press). His writing on food, agriculture, and animals has appeared in the New York Times, Harper’s, The Washington Post, Slate, Forbes, Travel an...more McWilliams is a historian and writer based in Austin, Texas. Books include Just Food: Where Locavores Get It Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly (Little, Brown) and A Revolution in Eating: How the Quest for Food Shaped America (Columbia University Press). His writing on food, agriculture, and animals has appeared in the New York Times, Harper’s, The Washington Post, Slate, Forbes, Travel and Leisure, The Los Angeles Times, The International Herald Tribune, The Christian Science Monitor, Freakonomics.com, The Atlatnic.com, and The Texas Observer (Texas’s only liberal magazine!), where he has been a contributing writer since 2002.
Current projects include two books. One, tentatively titled A Graceful Distance: The Cultural Origins of Factory Farming in the United States (Cornell University Press), explores the transformation of the human-farm animal relationship that provided the cultural and psychological foundation for large-scale animal agriculture in the nineteenth century. The second, tentatively titled Modern Savage: Our Unthinking Decision to Eat Animals (St. Martin’s), investigates the hidden ethical, environmental, and economic problems with small scale animal agriculture today, insisting that a plant-based diet is the most effective answer to the problems of industrial animal agriculture.

In the Fall of 2013 University of Texas Press will be publishing America’s Native Nut: A Brief History of the Pecan Tree.

Recently published: The Politics of the Pasture (ebook)
How Two Cattle Inspired a National Debate about Eating Animals
Lantern Books, Flashpoint
April 2013

NOTE: Between September 2013 and September 2014 McWilliams hopes to visit between 40-50 colleges and universities. These will be fully funded and promoted visits. All a potential sponsor need do is find space and a time for him to talk. His presentation is called “Veganism for Omnivores.” If you or anyone you know might be interested in scheduling a talk, please e-mail McWilliams at eatingplantsmcwilliams@gmail.com.(less)

More about James E. McWilliams...

Books by James E. McWilliams

A Revolution in Eating: How the Quest for Food Shaped America

American Pests: The Losing War on Insects from Colonial Times to DDT

The Politics of the Pasture (ebook) How Two Cattle Inspired a National Debate about Eating Animals

Building the Bay Colony: Local Economy and Culture in Early Massachusetts

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“However close you can be to a vegan diet and further from the mean American diet, the better you are for the planet." quoted by Gidon Eshel (Bard College geographer)” — 2 people liked it

“We instinctively feel an overwhelming desire to take sides: organic or conventional, fair or free trade, "pure" or genetically engineered food, wild or farm-raised fish. Like most things in life, though, the sensible answer lies somewhere between the extremes, somewhere in that dull but respectable placed called the pragmatic center. To be a centrist when it comes to food is, unfortunately, to be a radical.” — 2 people liked it

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