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Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Cape Town

3.95  ·  Rating Details  ·  9,298 Ratings  ·  673 Reviews
In Dark Star Safari the wittily observant and endearingly irascible Paul Theroux takes readers the length of Africa by rattletrap bus, dugout canoe, cattle truck, armed convoy, ferry, and train. In the course of his epic and enlightening journey, he endures danger, delay, and dismaying circumstances.

Gauging the state of affairs, he talks to Africans, aid workers, missionar
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Paperback, 485 pages
Published April 5th 2004 by Mariner Books (first published 2002)
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Patrick Colgan Dear mr. Lomayani, I just would like to point out that mr. Theroux has lived in Uganda for many years and that the travel from Cairo to Cape town took…moreDear mr. Lomayani, I just would like to point out that mr. Theroux has lived in Uganda for many years and that the travel from Cairo to Cape town took him several months, not a day or a week. Travel writing tends to generalise, but I must say that this book is much harsher towards white people and westerners in general.(less)
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(showing 1-30 of 3,000)
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Jeff
Jul 15, 2016 Jeff rated it really liked it
Shelves: non-fiction
Planes, trains and automobiles…

…and a ferry; rickety, smelly mini-buses; a dugout canoe, taxis and a cattle truck.

I give mad props to Theroux for humping it from Cairo to Cape Town at the age of 59, but this type of transport (he only used a plane once: to fly into Khartoum) would scare away the more discerning traveler – me. This makes me even more grateful for Theroux’s firsthand account of Africa.

Foreshadowing book spoiler: He quotes and draws comparisons from Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darknes
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Caroline
May 20, 2015 Caroline rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
Recommended to Caroline by: Shelley
Shelves: world
Grrrrr! Oh how this man irritates yet enthrals me!

I have just tramped down through Africa in the footsteps of Theroux, sighing and tsking, yet unable to put the book down. This man is a genius writer, yet so darn cantankerous, curmudgeonly and scathing that he made me want to throw the book on the floor and mash it. Even when he relishes a place, it often seems that it is the dirt, the stink and the squalor that inspires him. It's a kind of machismo. Proof that he isn't a tourist, but a bona fid
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Emily
Jun 29, 2007 Emily rated it it was ok
Recommends it for: arrogant tourists who think they're "not really white"
Shelves: booksofthepast
WHY do I keep reading books by this man? For some unknown reason I assume that I'll garner some great knowledge form his books or be more amused than frustrated. Thus far: not. Instead I'm annoyed by his arrogance and his assumption that he's different from other white people in Africa because he "knows" that the aide system is faulty or because he lived there in the 60's. Just because you have a backpack and a history with Africa doesn't make you an expert, and Theroux whining about the fact th ...more
AC
Jul 30, 2013 AC rated it it was amazing
Shelves: africa, travel
This was my first Theroux and, on finishing it, I couldn’t fully judge of the tone of a book that was written near what will likely be the end of his career, after a certain cynicism has taken root. Since then, I’ve read The Great Railway Bazaar (his first travel book) and now a good chunk of Ghost Train.

First, it has to be said that this book is very NOT-P.C. (to say the least!). Theroux has what often appears to be an open and unapologetic contempt for many of the black Africans he meets and d
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Steph
Aug 23, 2007 Steph rated it really liked it
Shelves: development
This book was a great read for a student of international development/relations. I understand the author's cynicism, admire his risktaking, and appreciate his insight into the impact of decades of foreign intervention in Africa. I didn't feel he was overly arrogant for a journey of this depth and magnitude; it certainly added to the story, for better or worse. It was an enjoyable read, full of analysis, rather than simply description.
W
Aug 24, 2007 W rated it it was amazing
Recommends it for: africa reality readers
"Safari," in Swahili means "journey," and is Theroux’s reason for returning to Africa: to escape a life usurped by schedules, appointments, e-mails and cell phones. After 40 years, Paul Theroux returns to Africa where he began writing. At 60, no one has so conquered the genre like Theroux.

But this return to Africa is more rumination than entertainment, and it is depressing. His first years in Africa—as Peace Corps volunteer and University teacher—saw a continent full of hope and promise. Today,
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Fortunr
Jan 19, 2015 Fortunr rated it liked it
Shelves: travel-natl-hist
A reasonably well written and interesting book about Africa.
There are very interesting bits about places rarely visited by Westerners (such as Sudan) that are surprising and vividly narrated by the author.
Quite heartbreaking is the terrible condition in which many countries in Africa still find themselves in, and the author's cynicism is very understandable, considering the history and the realities which Africa must face. His insight into the impact of decades of foreign intervention in Afric
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David Sarkies
May 15, 2015 David Sarkies rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
Recommends it for: People who like travel diarys
Recommended to David by: Saw it in a bookshop
Shelves: adventure
A trek through the heart of Modern Africa
16 May 2015

Well, I have already written three blogposts worth of thoughts on this really interesting book, however I will simply touch on a few more important points for those of you who don't have the time (or the inclination) to read through what I have written elsewhere (and the links to those posts are below). Anyway, this is the diary of a journey that the author took from Cairo, across the African continent, to Cape Town. His original intention was
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Jody
Mar 10, 2009 Jody rated it liked it  ·  review of another edition
Theroux is a pompous ass. A just-compelling-enough pompous ass.
GeckoEcho
Mayn! This flipping book was an endlessly patronizing, infinitely tedious rant from a burdened white man.

Perhaps the most annoying travel book I read. Gah!

Take 54 seats Paul Theroux. I'd recommend Dark Continent My Black Arse if you're looking for a Cape to Cairo travelogue. Infinitely better.

Edit:

This article? This article right here is The Truth. While the review is about The Last Train to Zona Verde: My Ultimate African Safari, it might as well have been reviewing this book.

Excerpts

"As Th
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Tim
Jul 08, 2010 Tim rated it really liked it
Near the end of Paul Theroux's north-south journey across the African continent, from Cairo to Cape Town, he allows himself the luxury of a swanky South African train trip, a rare mode of transportation for this usually spartan traveler in this fascinating trek on board cattle trucks, minivans packed to the roof with Africans, rickety matutus, canoes and proper boats. During a train stop a child begs in a prayerful way. Theroux, from the train, can't bring himself to toss food to her. After the ...more
Jeanette  "Astute Crabbist"
Curmudgeonly cogitator creeps curiously from Cairo to Cape Town. Crazy old coot!

Travel writer + several months of free time = Egypt--->Sudan--->Ethiopia--->Kenya--->Uganda--->Tanzania--->Malawi--->
Mozambique--->Zimbabwe--->South Africa--->Mozambique--->South Africa

Rearrange the letters in "Paul Theroux" and you get "Heat Up, Luxor!"
I feel it's my duty to point these things out. Make of them what you will.
Deb (Readerbuzz) Nance
May 21, 2015 Deb (Readerbuzz) Nance rated it it was amazing
Shelves: travel
Funny. I had a Paul Theroux on my shelf for years, untouched, and finally decided to take it with me to the Chicago Book Festival last summer where I released it. Theroux was speaking so I thought it would be cool to release one of his books just outside the tent where he was speaking. I left the book next to one of the tent stakes and went inside to hear him talk. He was a fabulous storyteller and I immediately regretted that I had given away his book. I went out to try to retrieve the book, bu ...more
Chantal
I got this mainly because:

1. Paul Theroux is Louis Theroux's father and I like Louis Theroux.

2. It was a Kindle bargain.

And No.3 (maybe ought to have mentioned this first) I have a bit of a fascination with that vast continent that can be glimpsed from my terrace.

Bearing in mind this is a good 10 years out of date I thought it was nevertheless a good way of seeing the real Africa as PT tends to go off the beaten track and retains a dry scorn for the touristy-type tours which in his opinion miss
...more
Florence
Feb 22, 2014 Florence rated it it was amazing
I like to experience travel with a little grit and Paul Theroux certainly is of like mind. While traveling from Cairo to Cape Town, crossing the African continent from north to south, he suffers discomfort, uncertainty, hostility, and life threatening situations. There is no public transportation through many of the countries he traversed. He hitched rides in rickety overloaded trucks and buses traveling on roads strewn with potholes and boulders. He freely expresses his disdain for aid organiza ...more
Don Becher
May 05, 2015 Don Becher rated it it was ok
Well either the entire continent is headed to hell in a hand basket, or Paul Theroux is one of the bigger pessimists I know. His theme seems to be in part that Europeans kept the place up and when it was handed over to those of African lineage corruption and incompetence took over. He heaps great blame on the NGO programs in Sub-Saharan countries-- essentially articulating that they have removed from citizens of many Africans nations any incentive to fend for themselves. He also has no respect f ...more
Seth
Mar 11, 2015 Seth rated it it was amazing
Paul Theroux does not admire foreign aid workers or the work they do. The first 200 pages of Dark Star Safari contain several accounts of rude, obnoxious, self-important aid workers, often depicted as roaring through blighted communities in expensive Land Rovers, refusing to give rides. Two aid workers tell him they are on their way to “supervise a wet-feeding,” an outreach effort that Theroux characterizes as “going to a village to dump [corn-soy blend] in a trough for people to eat.” He gets i ...more
Vilija Pauliukonis
What an arrogant, hypocritical dick! One picks up this book hoping for an armchair traveling voyage through East Africa. What one gets is a self-righteous White Man who describes himself as grizzled and wise at the ripe age of 70-something, pointing out numerous times that many Africans guess he's in his 40s because they are so unused to seeing old men. He paints himself as impervious to the dangers of Africa because he's Been There Before, and can speak to natives in their own language. He snee ...more
Ryan
Jul 01, 2012 Ryan rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
In Dark Star Safari, Paul Theroux travels from Cairo to Capetown over land. His journey takes him through Egypt, the Sudan, Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, Malawi, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, and South Africa. As much as Hans Rosling (of TED.com fame) urges his audience to see these countries as unique, I suspect that for many readers these countries are all just parts of a hazy mental map titled "Somewhere in Africa." On the legend might be the following notes:
Blood Diamond was a good movie set in Africa.
N
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Glenn
May 13, 2008 Glenn rated it really liked it
Recommends it for: travelers, travelers in Africa, aid workers, those interested in Africa
A great book which is entertaining, informative, and thoughtful. My travel book reading has been limited to Rick Steeves and Bill Bryson - Paul Theroux is a refreshing step toward the serious end of the spectrum, while still relying on a healthy dose of humor.

Theroux present himself as an intrepid traveler who is willing to brave any hardship for a story. Once he gets through Ethiopia, though, more of his personal story is revealed and I found the trip through eastern Africa to be much more rema
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Marc
Jan 17, 2013 Marc rated it really liked it
Recommends it for: 'real' adventure travellers
Renowned travel writer, Paul Theroux's, account of a solitary journey from Cairo to Cape Town in 2001. If you do not appreciate nostalgic, and often quite opinionated ramblings, then give the book a skip. You may enjoy a glossy safari lodge brochure better. I enjoyed his narrative because of its individualistic tone and Theroux's often contentious rantings against foreign aid workers and African governments' inability to put their people first.

His nostalgia is quite evident when he writes about
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João
Feb 17, 2016 João rated it really liked it  ·  review of another edition
Theroux embarca no desafio pessoal de viajar do Cairo à Cidade do Cabo por via terrestre, não tanto por vontade de visitar os lugares turísticos que vai encontrando pelo caminho, mas sobretudo pelo desejo de se isolar do burburinho do mundo civilizado ocidental. Embora tenha conseguido atingir o seu objectivo (obviamente!), a sua jornada não é fácil, tanto a nível físico como emocional. A burocracia para obtenção de vistos é imprevisível, cruzar fronteiras terrestres é um pesadelo (mas quem quer ...more
John
Oct 28, 2015 John rated it it was amazing
Enjoyed it as much as the first time through.

I would love to be the traveler Theroux is.
Gerald Sinstadt
Jul 23, 2015 Gerald Sinstadt rated it liked it
Why does one admire Paul Theroux and at the same find him hard to like? As a travel writer per se he is among the best. His desire to explore the less travelled regions of the world leads him into interesting places and encounters with interesting people. The problem for this reader is that no one seems to interest him more than himself.

This overland journey from Cairo to South Africa comes with detailed historical and biographical background which often spills over into showing off. As he cross
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Hank
Apr 13, 2015 Hank rated it really liked it
Legendary travel writer Paul Theroux hit a home run with this book, published about ten years ago. His adventures in east Africa, traveling mostly in rickety, dangerous vehicles and meeting native peoples from Egypt and Sudan to Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, and down into Malawi, Mozambique, and Zimbabwe, will keep you spell-bound. I found Theroux's discussions about the impact of western aid programs and of fundamentalist Christian evangelizing in Africa to be both accurate and thoughtful. His main ...more
Lisa
Aug 26, 2012 Lisa rated it it was amazing
Paul Theroux is aggravating at times. He is holier than thou, than I and than all the rest of us, so there is no other expat worthy of being in the developing world except for someone like him. This is the flaw in some of his books.

But what is enjoyable about this book is how much he enjoys the adventure and the simple act of getting from one place to another in places where doing that is never easy or comfortable, and he chooses the uncomfortable routes and modes of travel.

I read this as I tra
...more
Ken
Aug 09, 2011 Ken rated it it was amazing
One of my favorite Theroux travel books. He is returning to Africa 30 years later after having spent several years teaching in Malawi and Uganda when he was in the Peace Corp. He finds things have not changed for the better and much worse is many cases. He finds the cities are really dismal and has a lot of questions about whether all of the aid and aid workers that have poured into Africa have been any benefit. He meets Africans from all walks of life and meets some really wonderful people as w ...more
C.R. Miller
May 27, 2012 C.R. Miller rated it really liked it
His writing about Egypt and Sudan, including the cultural and historical reflections, I found fascinating. I found the section on Ethiopia useful, if a bit superficial. Theroux really hits his stride, though, when he gets into Kenya and Malawi, where he is able to draw comparisons between the places and peoples he knew from living and teaching there back in the 1960s and those of current-day Africa. His mounting critique of foreign aid and associated NGOs as he travels south is indispensable. At ...more
Benji
Strangely, I feel Paul Theroux becomes much more reflective in the second half of the book as the narrative winds down. From the outset, you're thrown into this whirlwind travel, and very little is revealed at the beginning other than the names of places, a few details and his hurry to get further South. The first half, his arguments become repetitive very fast and he doesn't seem to have much fun. But the second half is unique and special, and he visits places he knows much more intimately, spe ...more
Claudette Banda
Dec 11, 2007 Claudette Banda rated it really liked it
Recommends it for: travelers
Shelves: non-fiction
Paul's writing may not be all you've ever wanted, after all, his opinions on development and poverty are pretty vanilla in terms of insight, BUT this book is still amazing. Its well researched, presents a ton of African history and culture in an interesting way and there can be no doubt that the trip he writes on was so outside the average person's experience, you can't help but get a lot out of reading this book.
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Paul Edward Theroux is an American travel writer and novelist, whose best known work is The Great Railway Bazaar (1975), a travelogue about a trip he made by train from Great Britain through Western and Eastern Europe, the Middle East, through South Asia, then South-East Asia, up through East Asia, as far east as Japan, and then back across Russia to his point of origin. Although perhaps best know ...more
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“You go away for a long time and return a different person - you never come all the way back.” 60 likes
“The measure of civilized behavior is compassion.” 21 likes
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