North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii
In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunni...more
Paperback, 248 pages
Published August 5th 2005 by Frog Books
(first published 1999)
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