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North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii
In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunni ...more
Paperback, 248 pages
Published August 5th 2005 by Frog Books
(first published 1999)
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Have you ever ridden a roller coaster? The feeling you get in your stomach as you are about take that first drop of the ride, that is almost equivalent as the feeling you get when you drop in on a huge wave if not more. In the book North Shore Chronicles Big- Wave Surfing in Hawaii by Bruce Jenkins you get to visualize the experiences of these big waves that these surfers encounter in Hawaii.
This book does not only talk about it but shows pictures of the waves these professional big wave rider ...more