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Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing
There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with the ocean. In Dancing the Wave, Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he o ...more
Paperback, 176 pages
Published July 29th 2003 by Shambhala
(first published July 2003)
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