Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing
There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with the ocean. In Dancing the Wave, Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he o...more
Paperback, 176 pages
Published July 29th 2003 by Shambhala
(first published July 2003)
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