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Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest

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Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest

by Beck Weathers, Seaborn Beck Weathers, Stephen G. Michaud

3.40 · rating details · 622 ratings · 97 reviews

“I can tell you that some force within me rejected death at the last moment and then guided me, blind and stumbling — quite literally a dead man walking — into camp and the shaky start of my return to life....”

In 1996 Beck Weathers and a climbing team pushed toward the summit of Mount Everest. Then a storm exploded on the mountain, ripping the team to shreds, forcing brav...more

Mass Market Paperback, 352 pages

Published November 6th 2001 by Dell

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Aug 22, 2007

Robin rated it

Shelves: for-your-listening-pleasure

If you already collect 1996 Everest stories, you may read the whole thing. But if you don't, you'll probably want just Part One, which satisfies. The rest of the book becomes too much detail too late, and reads like filler.

PS to the audio reader: we don't need you to do voices for the same reason we don't need dialogue printed in different fonts and colors. It's annoying, and we get it that different people are talking.

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Nov 05, 2008

Mazola1 rated it

Although I didn't really plan it that way, I read Beck Weather's book Left for Dead right after I read Lincoln Hall's book, Dead Lucky. The two books have some obvious and uncanny similarities. Both Beck Weathers and Lincoln Hall were left for dead just below the summit of Mount Everest, thought to be beyond all hope of rescue. Both were believed to have died on the mountain, and both of their families were told that. Both were apparent victims of particularly lethal years on Mount Everest, whic...moreAlthough I didn't really plan it that way, I read Beck Weather's book Left for Dead right after I read Lincoln Hall's book, Dead Lucky. The two books have some obvious and uncanny similarities. Both Beck Weathers and Lincoln Hall were left for dead just below the summit of Mount Everest, thought to be beyond all hope of rescue. Both were believed to have died on the mountain, and both of their families were told that. Both were apparent victims of particularly lethal years on Mount Everest, which occurred exactly 10 years apart. And both books describe, as best as the authors are able to recollect and piece together, what it's like to "die" on Mount Everest and then get a second chance at life.

That having been said, I liked Weathers' book a lot better than Hall's. Some reviewers have complained that Weathers included too much information about his personal and family life, regarding this as "filler" and wishing he had just stuck, Dragnet-like, to the facts. This, I think, misses the whole point of Weathers' book. He himself has said that Jon Krakauer's book, Into Thin Air, gives a far more detailed and better factual account of the deadly 1996 season on Everest. Where Weathers' book excells is in its examination of the forces (and sometimes the demons) that drive climbers to risk life and limb, and how those risks impact both the climbers and their families.

As is well known, although Weathers survived, he did not survive intact. He suffered major amputations of his hands, as well as his nose, and underwent multiple surgeries. Still, Weathers writes that if he had it to do all over again, knowing what the outcome would be, he would do so. Some might think he is saying that the climb was worth his hands, that it provided a unique sort of self validation or a challenge that made him feel fully alive. But that isn't what he means at all.

Beck Weathers' reasons for climbing were not well understood, even to himself, and even less so to his wife and children. Weathers' book is unusual in describing his climbs as unpleasant, basically not fun, but something he felt driven to do, perhaps in an effort to lessen his chronic depression. His description of climbing is gritty, realistic and not at all romanticized.

When he went to Mount Everest, Weathers was on the brink of a divorce from his wife and complete alienation from his children. Had he successfully climbed Mount Everest, he would no doubt have proceeded to again attempt to climb Mount McKinley, part of his quest to climb the highest peaks on all seven continents. As the material which he includes from his wife and children makes clear, that would no doubt have meant the end of his marriage. Instead, Weathers' near death experience caused ( or forced) him to reflect on what was important in life. In doing so, Weathers realized that his family was the most important thing in his life, more important that climbing. So, when Weathers says he would do it all over again, he means that he would be wiling to sacrifice his hands to get back his family.

Others may regard everything except the story of Weathers' few fateful hours near the summit of Mount Everest as filler. I cannot. Left for Dead is the story of one person's journey of self-exploration. Just as Everest tested Weather's physical limits, it also helped him to find his emotional identity. In that sense, it was indeed the challenge of a lifetime. (less)

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Nov 01, 2008

holly rated it

I always enjoy reading Everest books, especially while under the warmth of my covers in bed :-) I really enjoyed how the author, Beck Weathers, injected his humor throughout the book, I found myself snickering which I rarely do while reading a book......I enjoyed reading the perspective from his wife Peach as well.......it's amazing that she stayed with him. I also enjoyed the layout of the book.....starting with the 1996 account, then going back in time to how he got to that point, then wrappin...more

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Nov 08, 2009

Ciara rated it

Shelves: autobio-memoir, read-in-2009

i really wish there was an option for half-star reviews, because this is more of a two-&-a-half star book for me. i am being charitable because the book wasn't quite what i expected, & although i was disappointed at first, i found the change in tone strangely refreshing. plus you can read the entire book in like two hours. or, i did, anyway.

so this is another account of the may 19996 everest expedition that jon krakauer describes in into thin air. if you are looking for a really exha...morei really wish there was an option for half-star reviews, because this is more of a two-&-a-half star book for me. i am being charitable because the book wasn't quite what i expected, & although i was disappointed at first, i found the change in tone strangely refreshing. plus you can read the entire book in like two hours. or, i did, anyway.

so this is another account of the may 19996 everest expedition that jon krakauer describes in into thin air. if you are looking for a really exhaustive, detailed account of what happened when a blizzard descended upon the upper portion of mount everest on may 10, trapping at least a dozen climbers overnight without shelter, oxygen, food, water, or medical attention in the infamous "death zone," leading to several tragic deaths, krakauer's book is indispensable & seriously compelling. but one of the most compelling aspects of krakauer's book for me was the story of what happened to beck weathers.

krakauer & weathers were team members attempting the summit together, led by seasoned mountaineer & guide rob hall. krakauer succeeded in reaching the summit & managed to make it back to high camp before being caught in the storm. beck weathers was forced to abandon his summit attempt when the high altitude reacted badly with his surgically corrected vision, rendering him effectively blind on the mountain. weathers agreed that it was be a suicide mission for him to attempt the summit with compromised vision, & hall insisted that weathers wait on a ledge just above camp for hall's return from the summit, so that hall could guide weathers back to camp. unfortunately, hall didn't start his descent from the summit until after the blizzard hit, & he was slowed by another incredibly fatigued climber. both hall & the climber he stayed behind to assist froze to death in the storm, though weathers wouldn't know that until later. as the day wore on & darkness started to fall, along with the storm affecting travel up & down the mountain, weathers knew he couldn't wait for hall & had to find another way down the mountain. he joined up with another group of struggling climbers from a fellow expedition. together, they reached the plateau where the tents were pitched, but in the white-out, they found themselves walking in circles, increasingly in danger of walking right off the side of the mountain before finding camp. they took shelter behind a small boulder & tried to keep each other awake & alive through the night. when the storm broke, the stronger climbers left for camp to recruit rescuers for the others, but when help came, weathers was one of two climbers who had fallen into a hypothermic coma. although he was breathing, shallowly, there was no other sign of life & the rescuers were forced to leave him for dead, since rescues at such a high altitude risk the lives of everyone involved in the rescue, & the likelihood of survival after falling into a coma like that & being in the elements for over twelve hours are almost zero.

astonishingly, weathers woke up from his coma, & even though his eyes were frozen, he managed to guesstimate the route to camp & stumbled in, a dead man walking. he was rushed into a medical tent with hot water bottles & sleeping bags, but his fellow climbers didn't expect him to live through the night. but he did, & he was able to climb mostly under his own power down to the ice fall, where he was rescued in the highest altitude helicopter evacuation ever. he lost on arm halfway up to his elbow, & all the fingers on the other hand, as well as some toes & his nose, but...he lived.

so that is the story i was expecting to read. & i got that, but to stretch it out to book-length, weathers augmented it with some memoir-ish background about what drove him to climb mountains, the toll his hobby took on his family, recollections of other climbs he did before attempting everest, & his life-long struggle with depression. it really wasn't what i was expecting...but i kind of appreciated it, since i struggle with depression too. i could relate to a lot of what he had to say, although it certainly did not motivate to take up mountaineering as a remedy. the whole book kind of felt like a huge apology to his wife for risking his life over & over again & finally having to come within a hair's breadth of death before centering his family in his life & trying to be a present husband & father, but...it would be difficult not to write something similar under those circumstances. weathers isn't a journalist like krakauer, & he acknowledges that krakauer's book is the definitive account for the details of most of what happened on the mountain. weathers offers a more personal account, without apportioning blame, & it was pretty interesting. the dark humor sprinkled throughout was also a real treat.(less)

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Nov 04, 2009

Drebbles rated it

Shelves: 2006

ivided into four parts, "Left for Dead" is not only about Beck Weathers' near death on Mount Everest, but his life before and after the disastrous expedition. The first part of the book describes the events on Mount Everest; the second part is autobiographical; the third part is about his depression and why he took up mountain claiming; and the fourth part is about his life today. Also discussed are his marriage woes and how his marriage survived his various obsessions (such as motorcy...more

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Sep 08, 2009

Jake rated it

If your looking for a detailed account of the tragic expedition on Mt. Everest in May of 1996, then your reading the wrong book. Beck Weathers, though part of the expedition and was "Left for Dead" twice up on Everest in 1996, it is more of an autobiography focused on how climbing had totally taken over his life, to the extent that he was not much a father nor husband.
Before reading this book you must read "Into Thin Air" by Jon Krakauer to get a full detailed factual ...more

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May 17, 2010

Jennifer rated it

I was disappointed in this book. Don't get me wrong, I love to read books and watch TV program about Everest and the amazing people that decide to challenge the mountain, but this book just wasn't what I was expecting. If you are looking for a book that talks a lot about mountain climbing or his experience on Everest, this isn't the book for you. While he does talk about these things briefly, most of the book details Beck Weathers' life all the way from a child up to present day. It is narra...more

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Aug 03, 2007

Devon Valderas rated it

i'll never forget the passage where the wife of the stranded mountain climber says that SHE will never forget gov. george bush's unwillingness to help the stranded texans-he said it was a federal matter...the helicopter rescue scene reveals the courage of a completely non-western code of courage...a quick rainy-day read...excellent.

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Nov 16, 2010

Zoya Bozhko rated it

Admittedly, I am a bit bias in my appreciation of this book. Meg, Beck's youngest child, was a classmate of mine and, at various points throughout my 8 years at Hockaday, a friend. When Beck came to speak to us at a school assembly, I remember crying and being in awe of his courage.

Surprisingly, this book has only strengthened those initial responses. This is not the story of a hero. This is not the story of a family man. This is a story of each of us when we feel alone and misu...more

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Jan 04, 2011

Maggie rated it

This book is a hot mess. Is it his journey home from Everest or his autobiography? I sincerely do not care about his growing-up years in Japan. I thought maybe by starting off with the Everest tragedy it would play out the book in a more unusual, enticing way, but not true. And the excerpts of conversations with his wife "Peach" about their dating years had to do with Everest how? I mean I understand people may have wanted to learn more about the person behind this obsessive desir...more

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Mar 26, 2011

Cindy rated it

Shelves: favorites, memoir, non-fiction

Story of the climber, who in 1996 almost died. Famous photos in newspapers worldwide showed how his nose fell off. Many others perished on this trip. These guys are nuts! Details of the physical perils are unbelievable! Fascinating book! Everyone should read this! Obsessive compulsive ego maniacs have no right to do this insane thing. Very exciting and interesting.

Part of the story details Beck's depression and alienation from his family. It's told in the first person, but h...more

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Jan 12, 2011

Carla rated it

Shelves: loaned-to-me-by-a-friend

I love books about mountain climbing, and especially Everest, probably because I like reading about things that scare the bejesus out of me. Also, I keep reading them because I think someday I will understand WHY anyone would WANT to climb Everest ... but I still don't; I still think they're all crazy. Nonetheless, this tale about Beck Weathers's near-death on Everest in May 1996 is fascinating, even though very little of it is actually about that. Rather, it's more of a narrative by him, his wi...more

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Nov 29, 2010

Linda rated it

I'm really into reading about the great Everest disaster of 1996, starting with "Into Thin Air" by John Krakauer. Beck Wethers was on that climb and this was the impetus for reading this book. There is a bit about the climb, of course, but the best thing about this book, for me, was his description of depression and what it is like to be depressed. He articulated things that I have felt and experienced but have been unable to articulate.

Therefore I recommend this book not ...more

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Jun 20, 2009

Carrie rated it

Shelves: adventure

I picked up this book because I'm fascinated with the story: May 1996, the worst death toll on Mount Everest in history. Imax has covered it, Jon Krakauer with "Into Thin Air," and Ed Viesteurs. I wanted to read the perspective from yet another traveler on the expedition who had a particularly harrowing tale to tell. Sadly, the writing is elementary and full of outdated colloquial expressions. I suppose the hired writer was attempting to capture the folksy attitude of Beck Weathers and...more

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Dec 08, 2008

Andrew rated it

Recommends it for: Anyone

Shelves: one-book-per-week-08-09

It's pretty rare that my opinion of a book changes dramatically over the course of reading it. Sure, a book that starts off well can turn out to be less interesting as time goes on, or a bad beginning can be saved by an increasingly good plot. But it's far less common to be considering putting the book down permanently after 100 pages, then end up enjoying it immensely by the end. Such was the case with “Left for Dead”. After the first third, I thought it was poorly written and expected the...moreIt's pretty rare that my opinion of a book changes dramatically over the course of reading it. Sure, a book that starts off well can turn out to be less interesting as time goes on, or a bad beginning can be saved by an increasingly good plot. But it's far less common to be considering putting the book down permanently after 100 pages, then end up enjoying it immensely by the end. Such was the case with “Left for Dead”. After the first third, I thought it was poorly written and expected the rest of the book to be boring filler. As is turned out, it just keeps getting better and better, eventually turning into a quality read that I would recommend to almost anyone.

After reading “Into Thin Air” earlier this year, I was curious to read one of the multitude of other books written about the 1996 Everest disaster, in which over a dozen people were killed in a single day by a sudden storm. Many of the those books were written in response to Krakauer's magazine article and book, which paints a fairly unflattering picture of some of the other climbers involved. I wasn't too interesting in reading books about the back and forth of differing viewpoints and opinions on who did or did not do the right thing that day. More appealing to me was “Left for Dead”, which is about the near miraculous survival of Beck Weathers. He had spent the entire duration of the storm laying in the snow, blind, frozen, and lost. When he was found the next day, he was still breathing but it was decided to leave him behind. The other climbers knew that physiologically he had no chance of survival and to attempt to rescue him would simply endanger the others. Hours later, barely conscious, he walked back to camp himself. Still at extremely high altitude and near death, the other climbers again assumed that he would pass away during the night. The next morning he insisted on walking further down the mountain with them, where he was eventually rescued by the highest altitude helicopter flight in history.

This story is related in the first hundred pages of the book. While the story itself is amazing and a true testament to the human will, the writing is simply sub-par. Characters are introduced with barely a description then not mentioned again, the pacing of the adventure is all off, and the reader just doesn't get a good feel for what it was really like up there (unlike in Krakauer's book, where the descriptions make you feel like you're on the mountain yourself). Most surprisingly of all, after the first 100 pages of a 350 page book, the Everest story is over! “What a rip off!”, I thought, where's my adventure story? I was already mentally preparing my negative review. When the following chapter started to detail his early life, I felt that the book was just going to keep getting worse.

Instead, it got a whole lot better. Weathers, his family, and friends all give personal, first person accounts of their lives leading up the expedition to Everest. The story of survival is amazing, but it becomes even more fascinating as a story about an individual, a human with flaws just like everyone else. This wasn't some athletic superhero up there; Weathers was a man suffering from depression and a danger obsession that was ruining his marriage and family. By telling the story of his life and especially his relationship with his wife (which at times is brutally honest and open) the reader starts to see the human context his which the events on Everest took place. This makes the story vastly more interesting, and Weathers' survival on Everest becomes just one part of a wonderful redemption story.

If you go into this book, as I did, expecting to read “Into Thin Air” from a different perspective, then you will be disappointed. On the other hand, if you are interested in a book about real people struggling with their demons and the power of life and death situations to change lives, read “Left for Dead”.(less)

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Jul 13, 2011

Margot rated it

· review of another edition

Shelves: nonfiction

The tone of the writing was often quirky. The narrative bounced around often, from the author, to his wife, to their kids, and to countless other people in the author's life. The result was at first a little hard to follow, but then it became conversational, as if you were watching them speak in a documentary film. The timeline of events was disjointed, however since I had read Into Thin Air before this, it still made sense (otherwise I would have stopped reading after the first chapter). Despit...more

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Aug 01, 2010

Elisa rated it

Beck Weathers is no Jon Krakauer and his account of the '96 Everest disaster leaves MUCH to be desired. The disaster is quickly dispatched in the first few chapters and then it's all about Mr. Weathers' life, his marital problems, his climbing obsession and how much it hurt his entire family (though he claimed to be completely oblivious to all that). It's basically a mid-life crisis with some interesting settings thrown in. The writing is also pretty bad - hence the comment about his book not me...more

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Jan 04, 2011

ceil rated it

Shelves: biography, own, rock-climbing, read-2010

This review has been hidden because it contains spoilers. To view it, click here. This was a very hard book to get through. Beck Weathers was one of the survivers of the 1996 Mt. Everest disaster. This disaster took the lives of about 12 climbers due to a horrible storm that came through the peak when three climbing teams were up on the mountain.

I had an extremely difficult time reading this book, not because the disaster was so horrible but because the writting was absolutely awful. It did nothing to peak my interest and was so boring.

Part one, was sh...more

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Sep 12, 2009

Jan C rated it

· review of another edition

Recommends it for: People interested in Everest and mountain climbing

Recommended to Jan C by: Cathie

Shelves: place, disaster, exploration

In John Krakuaer's book "Into Thin Air" Beck was left for dead, hence the title. However, he turned up and his wife Peach didn't want to leave him dead. She mobilized their friends and one of them knew someone who knew someone (six degrees of separation) who was able to find someone who was willing to put a helicopter in the air and attempt to airlift him off of Everest.

What wasn't known in the other books about that tragic trip up the mountain in 1996 and he reveals here,...more

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Mar 31, 2008

Susan rated it

One of the topics I usually read about each year is mountain climbing and the experiences it leaves behind with each climber. I believe all the mountain climbing books should not be restricted to people that see climibing as fun. While reading this book I realized there is more depth than just talking about the mountains and the climbing experience. I love how Beck Weathers was very unique with this book and didn't write the entire book on the climbing experience. Beck Weathers does a great job ...more

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Nov 27, 2007

Kate rated it

I normally would avoid a book like this, since the title makes it sound like some melodramatic tv pseudo-documentary. I picked it up for the sake of completeness, since I knew the 1996 Everest Disaster was a bit controversial. In the end, I was pleasantly surprised by the thoughtful and sometimes humorous tone, not at all Inside Edition or When Animals Attack. I was impressed with the narrative voice (informal and insightful), the decent flow and organization (better than Boukreev's book), and ...more

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Apr 27, 2011

Mike Kraman rated it

· review of another edition

This is a very good book. Reasons I like it is because it is real...not only that it is a true story, but it is real! Too many times books like this try to make everything look pretty, logical, and well ordered. This is raw and includes the good, the bad, and the ugly. Welcome to the world of the flawed human being. More than anything...I appreciate that he was vulnerable. He pretty much was a jerk...and is now taking steps (one at a time...like climbing) to get better.

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Apr 29, 2009

Lillian Angelovic rated it

I found Beck Weathers' Everest story fascinating and enjoyed his stories of mountaineering and how he found his way through depression to mountain-climbing. The "aside" comments from family and friends were pleasant additions and offered insight and depth. I think the whole life-story could have been edited down considerably, and I kept looking for some additional summarized statements at the end of "what we learned from this", but all-in-all it was interesting and gave a gre...more

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May 23, 2009

Lauren rated it

Shelves: death-disaster-monsters, biography-memoir

A very inspiring book, especially since he doesn't credit an invisible unrealistic deity or supernatural force with his survival. Rather, he knows that his survival was the result of his will and determination, his love for his family, his team mates, his rescuers, his family, his doctors, and one very brave helicopter pilot.

He also gets in a couple of good zings at George W. Bush (who, as governor, refused to lend his weight to the rescue mission) and the poor state of Texas public ...more

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Sep 14, 2009

Jackie King rated it

I really did not like Beck at the beginning of the book. If I were Peach I dont know that I would have been able to stick by his side as long as she did. I would like to think that I could, but I am doubtful. I am glad that he found out what is important in life, but I am sorry that it took the loss of his hands and nearly his life to figure it out. It is a great story about the will to survive and a man's journey. His Journey to find happiness brings him back to his own backyard.

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Jul 28, 2010

Josh Stephens rated it

Detailed account of probably the most fascinating story of the 1996 Everest disaster. Beck Weathers was one of the people who bivouaced on a ridge far from Camp 4. Some of the group was rescued while others lay dead or unconscious, like Weathers, who somehow regained consciousness and walked back to camp despite frost bitten limbs that would eventually need to be amputated.

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Jan 11, 2011

Alyssa rated it

It was a cross between "OK" and "I liked it." After finishing Into Thin Air, I liked having this story told from a different perspective. I don't think the writing itself was anything exciting but the story of what happened to the author is pretty incredible, making up for the rest of the (somewhat boring) details that were included but weren't exactly necessary.

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Jan 04, 2011

Summer rated it

SO, obviously I have a fascination for these types of survival stories. WHat can I say? This was half about surviving Mt. Everest, and the other half finding redemption in his home life after years of neglecting his family. Was it his expeience on Mt. Everest, or was it his need for help and love after the survival experience, that brought him to his knees?

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Mar 31, 2010

Miriam rated it

An OK book. I wish it had been written with more feeling. It feels a little bit too "matter-of-factly." I mean, almost dying on the side of the world's tallest mountain is a BIG deal and I can't imagine it wouldn't be a very emotional experience. The book is a definite read, but I prefer Jon Krakauer's book, Into Thin Air, which describes the same trip to the top of Everset.

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Aug 22, 2009

Susan Odetta rated it

I read Krakauer's account of this tragedy and the many others on the mountain at that time (Into Thin Air). This personal account by a climber who should not have survived, and, indeed, was left for dead and survived through his own inner will, dumb luck, and the impossible rescue his wife orchestrated. Beck's enormous ego comes through the story. He comes across a jerk; his wife must be a saint. I was left to wonder if his wife and children would say, since he returned from the mountain, that h...more

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