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Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast Duane, Daniel ( Author ) Apr-10-1997 Paperback

3.89  ·  Rating Details ·  516 Ratings  ·  57 Reviews
[ Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast Duane, Daniel ( Author ) ] { Paperback } 1997
Paperback, 239 pages
Published May 1st 1997 by North Point Press 1997 (first published 1996)
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Jaimal
Jan 11, 2009 Jaimal rated it it was amazing
How did it happen? Sure, I thought the sport was cool. Yes, I wanted to get good at it. But how did it take over? And why am I 30 years old and only working part-time just so I can go to the beach everyday? These are questions that many surfers find themselves asking at one time or another. Daniel Duane does more than answer them in Caught Inside. He does so with the impeccable observations of a poet and nature-writer. Perhaps I’m biased because Dan happens to be writing about my favorite stretc ...more
JT
Apr 16, 2007 JT rated it it was amazing
Recommends it for: Self searchers
A great read about a writer who gives it all up for a year just to surf in Northern California.

The book is great about just leaving it all behind and doing what you love. It is well written, both in the writer talking about surfing and in relating his life and the amazing sense of balance he gains. Great, great book!
Mr. Kasicki
Oct 21, 2009 Mr. Kasicki rated it really liked it
Recommends it for: people who like non-fiction
Shelves: non-fiction
Summary:
This story is the real story (non-fiction) of a successful businessman who chooses to quit his job and learn to surf. Over the course of his year outside "normal" society, he comes in conflict with other surfers, nature, and his lack of knowledge about this difficult sport. The author moves to Santa Barbara, California and joins a small surfing community that initially tries to keep him out but over time allows him in.

The story is told through a series of surfing adventures. He encounte
...more
Hellkitten
Jan 29, 2012 Hellkitten rated it it was amazing
This was the EXACT surf book I was looking for. I knew it existed, just took awhile to discover it. Am hooked 12 pages in.

"And those friends mostly nodded with forced enthusiasm when I declared my intention to move to the water; the kind of move that everyone acknowleges sounds great, but in a way that makes you know that they would never make such a mistake themselves."

"But this book isn't about how I returned to conquer the big waves - a meaningless project to begin with - it's about an impul
...more
Keith
Aug 22, 2007 Keith rated it it was amazing
Recommends it for: anyone who surfs
I thought this was a great book, especially if you've ever surfed in or near Santa Cruz. I've read a few comments about how Duane's "in depth descriptive" gets a bit much - I actually enjoyed it. It brought me back. One of the things I remember most (aside from the great surf and cold water) is the beautiful landscape, and the great smells in the air. There's just no way you can write about your experiences in that area without adding that narrative - it just goes with the territory (I'm in NYC ...more
Sharon Watkins
Jul 19, 2013 Sharon Watkins rated it liked it
Dan Duane spent a year surfing in Santa Cruz, and this book looks at his experience season by season. At his best, he prose is poetic, with a voice that reminds me of Annie Dillard in Pilgrim at Tinker Creek. But at other times, the book is overwritten and digressive. On balance, it is ok, but not great.
Ramiro
Apr 26, 2010 Ramiro rated it really liked it
i loved the authors writting style! it was a very descriptive style capturing all of his surroundings, both in and out of the water. although the title is misleading. the author does spend a year on the coast, but only the santa cruz area which is a very small part of the california coast. i would have loved to read his interactions on other parts of the coast.
Richard
Sep 19, 2008 Richard rated it really liked it
Shelves: surf
An incredible, engaging story of becoming a member of a community and culture I hold near and dear to my being. That is of the Surfer.

An enigma to those who aren't inside this culture, yet deeply enthralling to all who observe the magic of gliding across the water.

I highly recommend to anyone who has ever wondered what it is like to be a surfer.
Matt Englar-Carlson
Nov 30, 2015 Matt Englar-Carlson rated it it was amazing
I understand why this is considered a classic in surf literature. Thoughtful meditation on surfing and the pull of the ocean. Even better that I could picture just about every location in the book and aura that is Santa Cruz. Did not expect to enjoy this so much.
Riley
Aug 25, 2008 Riley rated it really liked it
I bought this at City Lights bookstore in San Francisco. I relate to it because he pulled a modern day Thoreau "live deliberately" move and became a surf bum. Kinda like me in this ski town. Extremely well written.
Miranda
Aug 31, 2009 Miranda rated it liked it
This was great, I have never surfed in my life but loved Duane's lyrical descriptions of the sea and its denizens as he searches for the perfect wave. I am moving to Santa Cruz and looking forward to experiencing some of the beauty he obviously loves.
Brian
Apr 02, 2011 Brian rated it it was amazing
Pretty stellar writing about the NorCal surfing experience. Duane tries to make accessible for non-surfers, but I have a feeling this resonates much louder to those who've spent the time cruising the coast up there. Very cool. Glad i finally got around to reading this one.
Justin
Mar 19, 2009 Justin rated it it was amazing
This is California. This book makes me long for the line-up everytime. I can feel the post nasal drip now. Duane paints an excellent picture of the real California coast, rugged, agrarian, beautiful.
Elijah
Nov 17, 2008 Elijah rated it really liked it
Not just a surfer's must read, but also anyone who can appreciate the quiet life on the Pacific Coast. Santa Cruz exposed. The Walden of surf fiction.
Marye odom
Mar 27, 2008 Marye odom rated it it was amazing
Nature writing, surf history, memoir. Duane's writing is beautiful and will take you on the California surf trip if you're landlocked. Any lover of nature writing will love this too.
graham
Oct 14, 2006 graham rated it liked it
Shelves: surf
nice to read about a guy making it through the crowds in Santa Cruz. there's still hope for California surfing
Sean
Jun 04, 2009 Sean rated it really liked it
One of the best written pieces of surf literature.
Jeff Bennett
Sep 03, 2010 Jeff Bennett rated it it was amazing
By far my favorite book on surfing. Wonderfully well written and engaging, I'd recommend to anyone who surfs or has interest in it.
Laura
Feb 21, 2008 Laura rated it really liked it
Recommended to Laura by: Dewey Decimal number 797.32092
Shelves: surfing
I want to be a surfer when I grow up. Always have.
Mele
Jun 08, 2007 Mele rated it really liked it
In an alternate universe, I am a surfer and wrote a book like this.
Alisa
Jul 04, 2011 Alisa rated it it was amazing
The timing for reading this one was eerily, and perfectly appropriate.
Loved.
Beth
Sep 26, 2008 Beth rated it it was amazing
i really enjoyed this one..must be the fantasies of dropping out.
Kyle Juelfs
Feb 26, 2017 Kyle Juelfs marked it as attempted
I was very excited to start reading this book. It started great and then about 35 pages in I felt like I was reading a book written by someone with ADHD. It became so random / scattered / overly descriptive with run in sentences that I didn't know up from down. Completely lost my interest, unfortunately and I gave up.
Jesse McWilliams
Dec 06, 2015 Jesse McWilliams rated it it was amazing
The act of riding waves transcends sport or hobby for most surfers and almost all of them struggle with the justification of that obsessive passion. Dan Duane is the exception to that rule, a surfer and a writer who can combine the two into both a factually accurate description of all things surf and a beautifully poetic love letter to the California coast.
For the reader who happens to be a surfer this book should be required reading. It follows the authors willful progression from "weekend wa
...more
Josh
This book took me a long time to read. I mean a really long time. It sat on my bookshelf for nearly 16 years, and then when I finally picked it up to read, it took me almost 2 1/2 months to read. It's mainly because the book drove me crazy. I thought it would be interesting reading about a surfer living in Monterey and delving into the life of a surfer and all that entails. There's the constant search for the perfect waves, understanding the pecking order of local surfers, and immersing into the ...more
John
Sep 06, 2015 John rated it really liked it
I have surfed for 57 years in mostly the SoCal environment. Have had a place in Mexico for 15 years and now currently 4 in Baja Sur. But what a surprise to read Duane's book of NorCal secret spots and winter water. Oh yeah, big difference between sand beaches and lonely reef places known mostly to locals. Plus, Northern California is more of a shark place than the southern realms.

I loved the Zen like journey of a person almost totally committed to an alternative lifestyle and the friends he made
...more
J.B. Siewers
Aug 27, 2016 J.B. Siewers rated it liked it
Shelves: i-own-it
Good read, gets a little long in the tooth regarding flora and fauna but overall a good mood piece. Twenty something drops out of life and rents a bedroom on the northern California coast for a year. Meets some characters and surfs every day but that's not the strength of the read. It's more of a mood setter, the characters are not that memorable, the action not spectacular, the personal growth does not excite, the gist is allusive. I would call it a "period piece" and decent enough. Maybe my ex ...more
Poofygoo
Sep 13, 2007 Poofygoo rated it really liked it
The appeal of "extreme" sports is in its metaphysical necessity. By putting your life so constantly on the brink of death, you become acutely aware of survival. Duane's quietly passionate search for the perfect wave profoundly elucidates why anyone would go through the humiliation of competing or even trying to work with nature: it's a transcendental experience where seven times out of ten, you'll get your ass handed to you (and that's when nature even cooperates), but the other three will be so ...more
Otis Chandler
Oct 13, 2006 Otis Chandler rated it liked it
Recommends it for: greg
Shelves: surfing, fiction
I remember reading this on Greg's recommendation. It was pretty good overall, just had lots of parts where the author felt it necessary to devote entire pages to decriptions of nature. But to get a glimpse of the life of a surf-bum its a pretty good read. Paints a much different picture than Spicoli...
Margaret
Nov 30, 2014 Margaret rated it it was amazing
This is a book that seeks to explain the passion of surfing. Duane leaves his dead end job and for a year commits to surfing every day. During this year he learns about reading the waves and surf culture from older experienced surfers. He gets to know how they came to the life choices that defied society's conventions. The author also recounts many quiet moments astride his surfboard, observing the wildlife and beauty of the central California coast.
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“I thought again about throwing language all over a scene, wondered if the emotional mystery of one's response to place doesn't lie in the inchoate play of possible words, of felt meanings and poetries, of the sublime, the romantic, the picturesque, Zen; even, perhaps, something new. And perhaps that twinge of disappointment one always feels at the words chosen - and thus also at the glorious scene-comes from the dream that in that instant of indecision and all-decision before your mind clarified its response to beauty, you just might have held within you language finally saturated with all the earth's meaning." Page 211” 2 likes
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