The Soul of a Chef: The Journey Toward Perfection

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The Soul of a Chef: The Journey Toward Perfection

4.0 of 5 stars 4.00 · rating details · 2,675 ratings · 219 reviews

In his second in-depth foray into the world of professional cooking, Michael Ruhlman journeys into the heart of the profession. Observing the rigorous Certified Master Chef exam at the Culinary Institute of America, the most influential cooking school in the country, Ruhlman enters the lives and kitchens of rising star Michael Symon and renowned Thomas Keller of the French...more

Paperback, 384 pages

Published August 1st 2001 by Penguin Books (first published June 26th 2000)

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The Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan

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Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver

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Sep 09, 2007 Kim rated it 3 of 5 stars Recommends it for: foodies

I enjoyed this book, which is an in-depth look into three different chefs in three different environments (the Certified Master Chef exam, a laid-back bistro in Cleveland, and a very haute cuisine restaurant in California). Ruhlman is a terrific writer, but I thought the book dragged toward the end and went a little long. That said, the insights into chefdom and the restaurant biz were fascinating, and the food descriptions delectable. I look forward to trying the recipes included at the end.

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Jul 23, 2012 Robyn rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: culinary, nonfiction, bookcrossing, given-away

Half-Price books again.

Overall, I'd say this would be a better book if Ruhlman had titled it something like "Mastery in Culinary Craft, Three Essays", instead of pretending there was any sort of continuous thread leading him from one project to the next. These were not unified at all. Ruhlman clearly selects great projects, because I keep reading his books even though the man drives me crazy (and not in a good way). I'd never pay full price for anything he's written, though.

Finished Part 1: Cer...more Half-Price books again.

Overall, I'd say this would be a better book if Ruhlman had titled it something like "Mastery in Culinary Craft, Three Essays", instead of pretending there was any sort of continuous thread leading him from one project to the next. These were not unified at all. Ruhlman clearly selects great projects, because I keep reading his books even though the man drives me crazy (and not in a good way). I'd never pay full price for anything he's written, though.

Finished Part 1: Certified Master Chef Exam on 7/21. Less of this was about Ruhlman, who is usually so self-centered that he drags the story behind him like a dead weight. There was one short bit where he actually stopped bothering to attend the Exam, apparently because the whole thing wasn't about HIM! He's not cooking, nobody is evaluating him, nobody would notice if he weren't there, so he just doesn't go to some parts. It's ten days in which he has to do nothing but take notes and observe, and he couldn't keep his focus? I was really surprised that Ruhlman focused so hard on Brian Polcyn, because I actively disliked him. I wanted to like him, and if the story were being told about him in his life away from the Exam, I might have. The few paragraphs relating to his family and his restaurant made him seem like a much nicer guy than every single other word written about him. As it was, I continued to read while hoping he would fail. I wanted Lynn to do well, not because she's female and not because she'd be only the second woman to pass the Exam, but because she seemed like such a genuinely nice person. And I wanted Steve to pass, because again he seemed so nice, was clearly working hard, cared about the people around him, and seemed from the start to have the necessary skills and thought processes. But Brian? I didn't want his attitude rewarded with a pass. For results (view spoiler).

Finished Part 2: Lola, on 7/22. I think I would have enjoyed this section, because I am somewhat familiar with Chef Symon and think he's a great guy, except that Ruhlman didn't write much about either Symon or Lola. Oh, on the surface it seems as if he did. You get a complete menu listing, watch the process of selecting a new menu, see three separate nights at the restaurant, two important for publicity and one important for finances. But in truth, this section goes nowhere and is always returning to its real focus: Ruhlman himself. A chapter about Chef Symon and his background, then a chapter about Ruhlman, his CIA experience, and his chef snobberies. A chapter about Symon having local news present, then a chapter about Ruhlman and how he looks down on Symon's food for not being sauced (ending in a few pages about James Beard, much of which is how fat he was). A restaurant critic comes, and Ruhlman looks down on his ethics before being grateful for the man essentially giving him permission to be--as Ruhlman himself self-identifies--shallow and self-indulgent. He "can't help but be judgmental" of Chef Symon's not being as neat as Ruhlman wants in the plating of a dish. This section has no arc, meanders and doesn't get anywhere, and seems just an excuse for Ruhlman to espouse, once again, his snobbishness. There is plenty of story to tell when it comes to Chef Symon and Lola. Practically none of it is told here. (P.S. John Mariani's name and words do not need to be in italics. He is not a god. Nowadays, he's really not terribly important, most of the press he gets is when he's complaining about some chef or another not treating him as he thinks he should be treated.)

On to Part 3: Journey Toward Perfection! Should be interesting, as I'm very familiar with Keller and The French Laundry. Fortunately, only chapter one of this section (and the book's epilogue) is another All About Michael Ruhlman. Unfortunately, the entire rest of Part 3 is a rehash of The French Laundry Cookbook. There's nothing new here. Even the tiniest anecdotes (a customer, who works at another restaurant but will soon be working at TFL, brings his mom back to look at the kitchen after they eat, she whispers that it's like a watchmaker's shop. This is the entire story, and it is included both here and in TFL Cookbook. The rabbit story, which was my favourite part of TFL Cookbook, is practically word-for-word here) are just repetitions.

Epilogue: I completely disagree with Ruhlman's conclusions, I think he's got it exactly backwards, actually.

As to the actual writing quality, I've seen it said that Ruhlman describes food well, which covers up his poor writing skills. I have a hard time determining whether he's a strong writer, because the paperback editions of his books have such shitty editing. So many typos and technical writing errors, which editors should catch if the writer can't. ("...he says, nodding and smiling, knowingly. When you ask him his last name, he says, 'It means saddlemaker in Russian,' and smiles knowingly." Really? A knowing smile twice in 19 words?) ("Henin, a sturdy, fit man, a veteran of a dozen high-end kitchens and a former instructor at several culinary schools, is currently a consultant for Yosemite Concession Service, which handles the food for the park system and Ahwahnee Hotel there, was born during World War II in Lyons, France, the gastronomic capital of the Western world." That sentence is so poorly structured, at the very least it needs a "who" stuck in somewhere.) I loathe when a writer switches from present tense to past tense without cause, and Ruhlman does that in the beginning of Part 3. All past tense, then suddenly a new paragraph starts (not even a new section, just a hard return) and it's present tense. This actually happens a lot in Part 3, where Ruhlman goes from reporting what is meant to be happening right now to telling the story of what had happened...except both are things that happened in the same conversation. If Grant "says" something just before he "said" something else, there's a problem.

As I mentioned in my review of "Making of a Chef", if you don't already have a grounding in culinary arts or haven't read much food writing, you will be often lost. Do you know what a sautoir is? Because Ruhlman won't tell you, but he'll expect you to understand why Brian Polcyn didn't want to use one for his spaetzle. Know that Lutèce was a restaurant, and what type? What shape a quenelle is? What a lowboy is? You'll be skimming a lot if not, because Ruhlman doesn't explain. This makes for a faster (and, honestly, more enjoyable) read for those of us who do know, but I can't imagine it's fun for those who don't.

Oh, and they've got to take the Bourdain quote and Detroit Free Press blurb off the cover. Don't know what book they read, but it wasn't this one!(less)

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Aug 30, 2008 Bruce rated it 5 of 5 stars

Shelves: food

When I grow up, I want to be Michael Ruhlman. That guy gets to hang out with the best chefs and write about it. I'm jealous.

Ruhlman's account of three chefs are more than just biography; he makes each story compelling and interesting. His account of Brian Polcyn taking the CMC examination kept me awake far too late on a work night as I wanted to finish it. The author's examination of what makes a chef are extremely interesting.

Ruhlman is a very good and entertaining writer.

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Jul 19, 2011 Patrice Sartor rated it 4 of 5 stars

Recommended to Patrice by: Food For Thought Book Club

Shelves: food, non-fiction

I highly enjoyed this one and would give it closer to 4.5 stars. Ruhlman breaks down his journey into three sections. The first focuses on the CMC, the Certified Master Chef exam, going into more detail in chef Brian Polcyn's story than some of the others. This is a brutally difficult, multi-day test of specific and precise cooking. Next, Ruhlman provides background on Michael Symon, currently an Iron Chef and owner of Lola in Cleveland. The book closes with an entire section on Thomas Keller an...more

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Feb 05, 2009 Becky rated it 2 of 5 stars

Two stars seems a little harsh, but according to the Good Reads scale it really was "okay" for me. I have two bits of advice about this book (1) don't read it during the first trimester of pregnancy--I'm pretty sure this book never really had a fair chance. Sweet meats, forced meats, foie gras and anything else that marinates cold in it's own fat does not get any more appetizing by writing about it in French. 2) The second and third parts of this book are significantly better than the first. The...more

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Jan 18, 2012 Tony rated it 4 of 5 stars

If you are not a foodie, then move along, this book is not for you. I am a foodie, and so is my wife. She surprised me with this very cool book at Christmas. It is a non-fiction tale told in 3 parts: the first is about the Culinary Institute of America's (CIA) certified Master Chef examination; the second part is a case study of a rising-star modern chef (who is a graduate of the CIA but who does not hold a CMC title); the third part is about an established top American chef and his number-one r...more If you are not a foodie, then move along, this book is not for you. I am a foodie, and so is my wife. She surprised me with this very cool book at Christmas. It is a non-fiction tale told in 3 parts: the first is about the Culinary Institute of America's (CIA) certified Master Chef examination; the second part is a case study of a rising-star modern chef (who is a graduate of the CIA but who does not hold a CMC title); the third part is about an established top American chef and his number-one restaurant. The writing follows an arc through these seemingly unconnected vignettes, examining the journey toward perfection in cooking. Most interestingly, the author isn't interested in "what it takes", but rather "why does it matter"? Of course, there is the constant probing of "what is perfection" throughout all parts of the book.

I loved this book for many reasons. I would say though, that each of the three parts held my interest in a different way and for different reasons. The first part is un-put-downable, fascinating, suspenseful. It is a peek into a secret world of elite cooking, and it is totally fascinating. It helps that there are seven candidates taking the 10-day examination, and statistically speaking less than 30% will pass. So obviously you become tied up in each persons story, holding your breath knowing that there is a doomsday prophecy to this whole rigorous painful endeavour. Very cool. The author takes a very balanced approach to his observations and openly airs his biases-- he is a CIA graduate too, but has not faced the CMC exam. He openly acknowledges that most professional chefs disparage the CMC exam, siting that it is antiquated, unnecessarily complex, and irrelevant. He also makes a pretty solid case for why the test is in fact important. The second part of the book is a look into the success of a rising star in the chef industry, and how he has ushered in a new era of fine dining in the Cleveland area. it is the personality of the chef himself that seems to fascinate the author, and how this chef's has embraced much of the teachings of the CIA but has also left himself room to be relaxed, extroverted, generous, even boisterous. In a sense, he brings a sense of balance to the sterile and puritan ways taught at the CIA (and he does so without sacrificing technique or skill). We are left asking "Is this closer to true perfection in the culinary world?". The third part exams yet another successful American chef (Thomas Keller) and his monumentally successful and highly lauded French Laundry restaurant in California. Here we are shown the crazy amount of work that goes into "being the best" on a daily basis. The French Laundry is Thomas Keller and vice-versa. He routinely works 14 hour days and longer, because he HAS to have things this certain way. His attention to every detail, including the actual design, layout, and daily functioning of the kitchen makes the restaurant attractive to work in. This attracts top sous-chefs and staff. This top-calibre team all strive to personify and deliver the vision that is Keller's, because thy believe in it too. His idea of perfection becomes their idea. Is this kind of drive required for perfection? Perhaps in terms of a nationally recognized restaurant. Keller spends a lot of time mentoring, teaching, correcting, managing, and mentally evaluating his staff. But in a quiet moment with the author, Keller himself confesses that despite his unparallelled success, his idea of perfection is different from his French Laundry. He speaks of a kitchen in which all the chefs and staff share an unspoken conviction to upholding an exact standard of excellence, such that communication about where things should be, how things should be done, and what should take priority all become unnecessary. Things would "just flow". Excellence would just "be". Perhaps such harmony within a busy kitchen is the ultimate form of perfection for a chef at Keller's level. In an environment of perfect harmony, the only thing that requires attention is the transformation of food into new and wonderful flavour experiences, provided the skills, techniques, and knowledge have all been acquired beforehand (...which connects the theme back to the CIA and classical training). Cool book.(less)

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Jun 27, 2009 Linnea rated it 5 of 5 stars

This review has been hidden because it contains spoilers. To view it, click here.

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Feb 28, 2012 Harlan rated it 4 of 5 stars

This book is almost impossible to review objectively. Like Making of a Chef, the book is aimed at foodies, people who know their French mother sauces and the difference between a saute pan and a sauteuse. If you're not in that group, you may not be able to share Ruhlman's crazy passion and hero-worship of his subjects. Ruhlman's writing, if you are not into food, can be repetitive and cliched, and he doesn't break any new ground in terms of understanding food culture (cf. Michael Pollan's work)....more

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Feb 08, 2009 Wm rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: food-gardening-self-sufficiency, aesthetics-writing-linguistics

That Ruhlman later writes books with two of the three chefs profiled in this book and appears to be friends with the third shouldn't diminish the fact that he does say some interesting things about, well, the souls of chefs. You gotta get close to the subjects in order to get the material that he does.

On the other hand, those with allergic reactions to Thomas Keller deification should probably skip this book.

And Ruhlman never quite fully interrogates the deeper aesthetic underpinnings to his co...more

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Jun 12, 2011 Emily rated it 2 of 5 stars

I think I"m going to swear off food reading for a while after this one. This book was divided into three parts: the first about the grueling Certified Master Chef exam administered by the Culinary Institute of America, the second about then up and coming chef Michael Symon and the third about Thomas Keller, chef at the French Laundry and who many believe to be one of the best chefs in the country.
The first part about the exam was the most interesting. How do you test the qualities of a great che...more I think I"m going to swear off food reading for a while after this one. This book was divided into three parts: the first about the grueling Certified Master Chef exam administered by the Culinary Institute of America, the second about then up and coming chef Michael Symon and the third about Thomas Keller, chef at the French Laundry and who many believe to be one of the best chefs in the country.
The first part about the exam was the most interesting. How do you test the qualities of a great chef. Most of the exam had to do with classical French preparations it seemed.
The second and third parts really dragged. Michael Symon is now a bonafide celebrity chef - He's an Iron Chef now!! When this was written we was still up and coming. I like Michael Symon a lot, but reading about him at his Cleveland restaurant, Lola, was a little boring.
I'd have to say the same for the section about Thomas Keller. His restaurant in CA wine country is one regarded as one of the best restaurants in the country and he, one of the best chefs. But in spite of that, I didn't really enjoy reading about it. By the end of the book there had been so much discussion about veal stock that I started to dream about it. They also talked about offal meats so much in this book that it was pushing me toward becoming vegetarian. Eating calves brains, kidneys, tripe and pigs ears may really be delicious when you eat them at The French Laundry but reading about them - the butchering, preparation etc., was just grossing me out.
I did have an "a ha!" moment at the end of this book. Chefs aren't the only ones who strive for perfection. To be good in any industry requires the same dedication and attention to detail. Even in my home life I am, in some ways, striving to be perfect. It's not a destination. As Thomas Keller was kind of saying, you work at it all the time. Once you achieve some level of "perfection" the bar is raised higher. And you must work at it constantly with every little detail.
So there were some interesting parts to the book, but I liked Michael Ruhlman's book The Making of a Chef (about culinary school) a lot better.(less)

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May 23, 2012 Natalie rated it 3 of 5 stars

This book covers three landmarks in the world of high cuisine: the Certified Master Chef exam at the Culinary Institute of America, Michael Symon's Cleavland-based Lola Bistro, and Thomas Keller's French Laundry located in the Napa Valley. Between the tantalizing descriptions of food being prepared and flawlessly served, Michael Ruhlman attempts his hand at describing the true agony and ecstasy of being a chef which is a true dedication and never-ending journey. Ruhlman reveals the man under the...more

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Dec 05, 2012 Tina rated it 4 of 5 stars

The book is well written and divided into three parts that are ordered in a way that give readers an overall appreciation for the art of cooking. The first section dives into the CIA master chef exam and Ruhlman does an excellent job of making it almost a nail biter as you root for your favorites to pass the complex and rigorous 10 day test. The second part is much more light and focuses on a very young, jovial Michael Symon, while also setting the stage for the 3rd part about Symon's idol - Tho...more

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Jun 12, 2012 L rated it 3 of 5 stars

Two-thirds of this book raced along well but it ground to a screeching halt when I reached the final section. Ruhlman followed a group of chefs pursuing the debatably-important achievement of CMC (Certified Master Chef). This was almost like watching an episode of a reality TV show where contestants are voted off, one by one. Although his observations were heavily slanted toward one chef (Brian Polcyn), I still felt like the author gave us pretty good insight into the other chefs and their reaso...more Two-thirds of this book raced along well but it ground to a screeching halt when I reached the final section. Ruhlman followed a group of chefs pursuing the debatably-important achievement of CMC (Certified Master Chef). This was almost like watching an episode of a reality TV show where contestants are voted off, one by one. Although his observations were heavily slanted toward one chef (Brian Polcyn), I still felt like the author gave us pretty good insight into the other chefs and their reasons for being there.

The second section profiled Michael Symon of Lola, one of Cleveland's best restaurants (yes, you read that right - Cleveland). Ruhlman did capture Symon's personality pretty well. I wanted to not only eat there but work for him, too. If you believe the author, Symon is the happiest man on earth.

The final section, about French Laundry, arguably the best restaurant in the world, dragged. It was reading this section that made me realize that the author truly isn't that interesting a writer. He describes food well, which is what readers get captivated with but he uses it as misdirection to hide his plain way of stating things.

Also, Ruhlman came off as an elitist snob; he's a recipe-dropper (a la name-dropper) and seemed to want to recall his glory days (of only a year previous) "working the line" in various restaurants. His description of how Thomas Keller, owner and chef at the French Laundry, created a recipe in his kitchen while Keller was staying with him just smacked of bragging. And no, I don't feel like I'm a Neanderthal for not having eaten a calf brain or a pig's tongue. Just because you've eaten them, Ruhlman, does not make you cultured.

The biggest irritation I found about this book was the vocabulary. What the hell is a lowboy? What is a consomme? I wasn't familiar with some of the terms and most of the kitchen equipment and Ruhlman, information-hoarder that he is, didn't reveal definitions for any of that. He was all about describing forcemeat and how rabbits scream when you kill them and pouring boiling water over lobsters until they die. If I wasn't eating meat before, I certainly wouldn't be after reading this. Kitchens are brutal. I won't be reading any more of this author but I am very interested in more culinary writing.(less)

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Mar 09, 2007 diana rated it 2 of 5 stars

i feel like this book is a little disconnected, and asks the reader to draw too many conclusions on her own, but i like selected parts A Lot. the master chef certification exam is really fascinating and i'm stoked to read more about thomas keller. i've got about 75 pages to go.

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Nov 22, 2009 Patrick rated it 5 of 5 stars

Ruhlman covers the stories of three very different chefs in three different situations. Two in their restaurants and one taking the Certified Master chefs exam which is probably 10 times harder than any of the challenges given on any cooking competition show. This test breaks great chefs.
The chef in the book, Brian Polcyn, fails the test for the second time, but that is not really what this book is about.The book is really about an unspoken quality that every great chef has. It cannot be taught...more

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Oct 10, 2012 Morrigane R rated it 5 of 5 stars

Shelves: foodie, non-fiction

This book is worth reading for the portrayal of (in my opinion) the greatest American Chef this land has ever know, Thomas Keller. I learned more about what drives this Zen-master of cooking in this book than any articles I have read about Chef Keller or even from his drool-worthy cookbook.

Michael Ruhlman is a great journalist. He has heart and is a passionate food writer. He doesn't go as in-depth as I would perhaps but he brings a chef's sensibility from his own experiences to his writing whic...more

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Sep 01, 2010 Margaret rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: food-writing, authors-qrs

Ruhlman begins his exploration of what it means to be a chef by observing the Certified Master Chef test at the Culinary Institute of America, before going on to observe two chefs in depth: Michael Symon of Lola Bistro and Wine Bar in Cleveland, and Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in the Napa Valley.

I was most interested in the first part, because of the intensity and drama of the exams, and the third, for Keller's journey toward fame and search for perfection. Ruhlman's food descriptions a...more

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Sep 10, 2009 Louise rated it 3 of 5 stars

Soul of a Chef is food writer Michael Ruhlman’s experience as a student going through the esteemed Culinary Institute of America. For someone who’s thought about working in a restaurant, the book was an eye-opener; it gave me a view of the CIA without actually having to attend it.

Ruhlman manages to deftly convey his enthusiasm for food as well as the enthusiasm of the people he writes about. Instructors and teachers all have their own personal quirks and beliefs and Ruhlman writes them down with...more

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May 26, 2010 Ted rated it 2 of 5 stars

Shelves: non-fiction

This is really three essays stitched together to form a book, so right there I was a little disapointed because it felt forced. That said each essay on its own was interesting. One follows students taking the Master Chef exam at the CIA. The second follows a rising chef dealing with the practical issues of running a kitchen. The third is about Thomas Keller and the French Laundry about being a star chef and lording over the best restaraunt in the US. Different views of being a chef, but all are...more

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Aug 12, 2010 Rebecca Huston rated it 5 of 5 stars

Shelves: cookbooks, keepers, non-fiction

Michael Ruhlman returns to the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) to look at the demanding criteria to become a Certified Master Chef. This one makes Top Chef or Iron Chef competitions look like sissies -- it's a demanding, intense series of tests that push many to their absolute limits. In some years, no one becomes a CMC. Great read, intense, and a good look inside what it takes to be the very very best.

For the complete review, please go here:
http://www.epinions.com/review/The_So...

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Nov 18, 2009 Nick Dolce rated it 4 of 5 stars

Written about a year after the Making of a Chef, Michael Ruhlman goes looking for the technical perfection that is at the heart of what is taught at the CIA. He seems to be unsure of what exactly he's looking for until he bears witness to Thomas Keller in action. As that doesn't happen until the third part of the book, the rest of the book has the feel of someone who isn't quite sure of the purpose for which he writes. As such, the last section is the most focused in purpose. The first section r...more

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Apr 21, 2013 David Stanley rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: food

Again, a spot-on book by Ruhlman about food and finesse & the passion to be truly exceptional at one's craft. Ruhlman's prose alone should suck nearly any non-fiction fan right into the book. If you're at all interested in food, you won't be able, much like a great mystery, to put this book down. Ruhlman has a matchless literary skillset - he can move you right into the present tense with the men & women he observes for this book. One of those books that makes you sad at the end because...more

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May 12, 2013 Joanie rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: from-the-library, non-fiction, winter-challenge-2010-2011, food

Have you ever had it happen where you read about something for the first time and then you read something else that mentions the same thing?

A few weeks back I read Pat Conroy's cookbook/memoir and he talked about when he wanted to learn to cook he bought Escoffier's cookbook and taught himself to cook. I had never heard of Escoffier and had no idea that he was basically the master of French cooking. While reading The Soul of a Chef, I again encountered Escoffier.

The Soul of a Chef is comprised...more

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Oct 02, 2008 K rated it 2 of 5 stars

Recommended to K by: Dad

Pre-read: So on the cover of this book, above the title is a quote from Anthony Bourdain :"A hold-your-breath-while-you-turn-the-page thriller that's also an anthropological study of the culture of cooking." Wow! I was really looking forward to reading a book like that.

Post-read: Huh? What book was he reviewing? Because after completing this book it's clear that the review must have been for some other book.

This book is written by another food writer who submerges himself into the world of cook...more Pre-read: So on the cover of this book, above the title is a quote from Anthony Bourdain :"A hold-your-breath-while-you-turn-the-page thriller that's also an anthropological study of the culture of cooking." Wow! I was really looking forward to reading a book like that.

Post-read: Huh? What book was he reviewing? Because after completing this book it's clear that the review must have been for some other book.

This book is written by another food writer who submerges himself into the world of cooking (his first book was about his experience of going through the CIA). This book is broken into three parts- the first is about his observations while viewing one year's prestigeous Certified Master Chef exam, the second recaps some time spent with Michael Symon of Cleveland's Lola Bistro, and the third section spans the career of Thomas Keller of the French Laundry.

The connecting thread throughout the three sections is supposed to be about finding perfection as a chef. And while it seems he loosely tries to keep this as the over-riding theme, really the three sections seem like disconnected stories that are sometimes more just a dump of information. In the first section, the insight into the CMC exam and process is really interesting, but as he varies the focus of his writing from the exam, to the 7 chefs talking the exam, to focus on one in particular, back to 3 of the others, I found myself distracted by the question of - what is his point?

In the second part, he focuses on a young chef in Cleveland. Again interesting, but hard to figure what he is focusing on - it's a mix of the chef's perspective on food, some detailed recipes, and some overly detailed information about the operations of the restaurant. There's even one part where he recaps in detail three performance reviews that were given to the staff - why?

The last part of the book, which is about Thomas Keller is the most insightful and interesting, but again, it's a strange mix of stories, recipes and information that skips around in time and subject matter. I personally was interested in Keller's history, so I enjoyed reading more about him, but thought that it was a rather weak mini-biography.
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May 31, 2008 Shana rated it 4 of 5 stars

This book is separated into three parts. The first portion is all about the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) and their Master Chef program. It's an amazing description of the most detailed culinary program/distinction around. The requirements described to become a master chef are amazing... and resonates with any foodie or individual in the industry.

The remaining two sections are about two different restauarants, the second of which was the French Laundry in Yountsville, CA. After reading th...more

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Nov 28, 2010 Brenan rated it 4 of 5 stars

This story about what makes a great chef is fascinating, and made me realize how little I really know about what is required to make amazing food. I've never had any desire to go somewhere just to eat in a restaurant, but after reading this book I wanted to book a ticket to Sonoma and dinner at the French Laundry. The $250 per person price is pretty prohibitive, but it's hard to read this book and not want to just go for it. Great book for people who love to eat and love to cook.

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May 04, 2009 Aileen rated it 5 of 5 stars

Read this over spring break, and it's a fascinating look at three facets of the culinary world--a nailbiting story about the Master Chef's exam, a profile of the newest Iron Chef, Michael Symon, and the story of the famous restaurant The French Laundry in Northern California. My husband's family's been in the restaurant business for decades, and I thought I knew something about how difficult the life of a chef/owner could be--wow. I learned a TON. Symon's my new hero.

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May 30, 2010 Johnny Galt rated it 4 of 5 stars

Yes it is three essays tied into one, but I didn't feel they were disconnected at all and each one gets into the question of what makes a chef and how is it measured very well. I was very excited that everything I learned about cooking was synthesized here in this book by the words of some of the most famous and unknown chefs in the kitchen. Learned some good cooking tricks at the same time. Very enjoyable but pretty technical and sometimes esoteric.

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Apr 07, 2013 Liz rated it 3 of 5 stars · review of another edition

The first part of the book, about the certified master chef competition, was the most interesting in terms of plot, but it was amazing how dated the food seemed. I couldn't imagine the highly formalized French courses the chefs were preparing appearing on any contemporary menu in the U.S. In the later two sections of the book, profiles of Michael Symon and Thomas Keller, the food made a welcome entry into the 21st century (even though this was written in the late 90s), but the writing dragged a...more

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Dec 31, 2009 Adamtbetts rated it 4 of 5 stars

The second book in a series. Michael Ruhlman looks back on his time spent as a journalist in a chef's world at the Culinary Institute of America and visits graduates and some famous personalities as he tries to understand whether cooking is simply a craft or an art form. The book also offers a unique look into the process of certifying Master Chefs. Cool book for people that like to eat out and want to know more about the industry.

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About Michael Ruhlman

Michael Ruhlman (born 1963 in Cleveland, Ohio) is an American writer. He is the author of 11 books, and is best known for his work about and in collaboration with American chefs, as well as other works of non-fiction.

Ruhlman grew up in Cleveland and was educated at University School (a private boys' day school in Cleveland) and at Duke University, graduating from the latter in 1985. He worked a se...more

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Books by Michael Ruhlman

The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute of America

Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking

Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing

The Elements of Cooking: Translating the Chef's Craft for Every Kitchen

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