The American Way of Eating: Undercover at Walmart, Applebee's, Farm Fields and the Dinner Table

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The American Way of Eating: Undercover at Walmart, Applebee's, Farm Fields and the Dinner Table

by Tracie McMillan (Goodreads Author)

3.56 of 5 stars 3.56 · rating details · 1,400 ratings · 326 reviews

In the tradition of Barbara Ehrenreich’s Nickel and Dimed, an ambitious and accessible work of undercover journalism that fully investigates our food system to explain what keeps Americans from eating well—and what we can do about it. Getting Americans to eat well is one of today’s hottest social issues; it’s at the forefront of Michelle Obama’s agenda and widely covered i...more

Hardcover, 1st Edition, 319 pages

Published February 21st 2012 by Scribner

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The Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan

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Mar 19, 2012 Kate rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: books-about-work, foodwriting, what-is-this-country-coming-to

McMillan is trying to do two things at once. First, she's tracking the life cycle of food in America by taking jobs on a farm, at a grocery store, and in a restaurant. Secondly, she's exploring the challenges that these workers face when they try to eat fresh, healthy food on their incomes. From her experiences, she hopes to learn more about how food gets to your table, why it costs what it does, and why so many of us seem to be living on Little Debbie and Chef Boyardee.

It's good, but it doesn'...more

7 likes · like · see review

Jan 23, 2012 Paul Pessolano rated it 3 of 5 stars · review of another edition

“The American Way of Eating” by Tracie McMillan, published by Scribner.

Category – Sociology

Tracie McMillan went undercover in farm fields, Walmart, and Applebee’s in an effort to explore the lack of fresh produce in our diets and what we eat and why.

The first part of the book has Tracie working as a farm hand alongside the immigrant farm workers in California. Although she does not bring any new problems in the industry, she does remind us of the plight of these workers.

Her next job was at a Wal...more

3 likes · like · see review

Feb 21, 2013 Jen rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: non-fiction, memoir

Journalist Tracie McMillan explores the American food supply by working in it. She goes undercover and lives as a crop picker, a Walmart produce stock-person, and an Applebees kitchen worker. My favorite section of the book is when she is living in Detroit working at Walmart and exploring the food supply of the city to residents. She visits the large produce wholesalers (Eastern Market), local grocers - and the big chains which will not locate inside the city limits.

I started this book a couple...more

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Jan 25, 2013 Alan rated it 5 of 5 stars

This book is in between a Michael Pollan book that looks at our food from its source to the plate and a Barbara Ehrenreich book that looks at the lives of low wage workers. In other words, I learned a lot by reading this book and strongly recommend it to anyone interested in food and food workers.

The beginning of the book describes how, author Tracie McMillan, went to California to work in various places as farm worker. Her first job was picking grapes, which she found took more skill than she h...more

1 like · like · see review

Jan 15, 2013 Colleen rated it 2 of 5 stars

Shelves: non-fiction

I thought I would enjoy this book much more than I did because the subject matter is very interesting and relevant. I read Barbara Ehrenreich's "Nickel and Dimed" book a couple of years ago and really enjoyed it, and unfortunately McMillan's book seemed like a poor copy of it. Although it was supposed to be about food and the issues pertaining to food consumption in America, somehow it seemed to miss the mark. Obviously, because she went undercover and worked in various sectors of the food indus...more

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Jan 08, 2013 Jane rated it 2 of 5 stars

I was really interested in the subject of this book, but I really wish Barbara Ehrenreich had covered it instead. This is way too dense. Nearly every page has a lengthy footnote or two, and I am not talking about fun, Terry Pratchett-ish footnotes.

The writing is also oddly confusing. I had to read several sentences over again because I couldn't figure out what the author was trying to say.

The best parts of the book are when the author describes the people. I wish she had narrowed her focus more...more

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Jan 01, 2013 Ashland Mystery Oregon rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: culinary-narratives

McMillian writes of the nexus of food and economics - whether eating well costs more, and whether the desire to eat well is a class perogative. The answer to both points is yes and no. McMillan's first experience is in the California fields, seeing first hand the complex lives of migrant worker and enjoying a marvelous generosity of spirit and goods.

As she makes her way across the country, into increasingly urban environments and up the food chain, her experiences become less personal, more ind...more

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Nov 10, 2012 Mark rated it 2 of 5 stars

The American Way of Eating is a supremely aggravating book. Tracie McMillan goes undercover to learn more about the American food industry at various parts of the process, at a farm, grocery store and chain restaurant. This is an important topic that needs to be told, but the author is not quite up to the task.

She is not hardy enough to handle farm work, so those chapters tend to be more about her physical condition than the work itself. Again at Wal-Mart, where she works as stock clerk, she...more

2 likes · like · see review

Oct 14, 2012 Jelena rated it 1 of 5 stars

I hate this book. A lot.

If I did not have to read this for a class I would have trashed it a long time ago. McMillan, decides to go "undercover" as a farm laborer, a WalMart employee, and an Applebee's expeditor.

The story itself could have been interesting if McMillan would have focused more on those she met who do this type of work every single day rather than whining about her personal struggles with it (I didn't budget this month, looks like I'll have to take out another cash advance! Boo fr...more

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Sep 21, 2012 Andrew rated it 1 of 5 stars

This book was just so blah. I loved the articles gleaned from this book that I read on Slate or Salon and thought the whole book would be as interesting a read. Boy was I wrong. She didn't really connect me to any of the people she met other than in the most superficial way.

For me, in the end what could have been a fascinating book ended up being a narrative that was so dull and largely unmoving. I think one could envision this book as two in one - one book deals with the mechanics of the mass p...more

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Sep 14, 2012 Ryan Mishap rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: personal-writing, history, environment, political-category, science-natural-history

Nickle and Dimed for food in the United States, a journalist follows how food is produced, harvested, distributed, sold, used by restaurants, and is a striking indicator of how income inequality, food history and current priorities, and how we live alter our personal and political landscapes (as well as altering regular landscapes, of course).

Fascinating, enraging, interesting, well-written, and cogent in analysis, I can recommend this to everyone.

This falters, in my opinion of course, because...more

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Sep 08, 2012 Alex Templeton rated it 4 of 5 stars

Tracie McMillan decided to investigate the American food industry and the lifestyle of those who bring us our food, literally from farm to table. She worked in the produce fields of California, a midwestern Walmart, and a Brooklyn Applebee’s, and reports her experiences in this book. I believe it to be a fine addition to the current food literature, illustrating, as it does, the many ways in which our food SYSTEM needs to be reformed to better both our diets and our workers. Still, I was most st...more

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Aug 27, 2012 Ciara rated it 2 of 5 stars

Shelves: autobio-memoir, incomprehensibly-terrible, read-in-2012, stunt-memoirs

hmmm. one of the key rules of writing book reviews is to review the book you actually read & not the book you wish that book had been. i admit that this book was not what i expected it to be. i saw the title & read that it was an expose of the american food system. i was expecting something informational & sociological--kind of like all the books i have been reading about the baby industrial complex, but about food. instead, i got a bizarre stunt memoir by a well-educated young woman...more hmmm. one of the key rules of writing book reviews is to review the book you actually read & not the book you wish that book had been. i admit that this book was not what i expected it to be. i saw the title & read that it was an expose of the american food system. i was expecting something informational & sociological--kind of like all the books i have been reading about the baby industrial complex, but about food. instead, i got a bizarre stunt memoir by a well-educated young woman/freelance journalist who decides to cop barbara ehrenreich's shtick & take a series of jobs in different spheres of the american food economy & write from the inside about what really goes on. she also plans to truly live like the people she works with by living off her wages, making the same financial sacrifices they have to make, & spending her budget accordingly, including her grocery budget.

i am really burnt out on these kinds of books, where people do some dumbass thing for a year & then write about everything they learned. & i have NEVER been a fan of books where someone purports to see how "the other half lives" & to report back on it. who does she think she's reporting back to? nothing she says is going to be breaking news to farm workers, grocery employees, & food service workers. so she's basically doing this community service for other well-educated professionals. the whole thing just grosses me out.

her writing style is also tough to take. it varies wildly between fairly readable sociological research & somewhat whiny personal anecdote, & it is peppered with an endless stream of annoying footnotes. put it in the text, write up an endnote, or just leave it out, but CAN IT with the footnotes, people! it's not cute.

basically, she is shocked that all these jobs she takes are hard. she gets dehydrated, overheated, wounded, & tired working in the farm fields. she finds the graveyard shift at her local walmart disruptive to her social schedule & her natural rhythms for sleeping & eating. she finds restaurant work incredibly busy & overwhelming. & all along the way, she writes about her relationships with her co-workers, landlords, & neighbors in a way that just reeks of white guilt & that weird condescension that white people so often bring to their relationships with people they consider to be living a "plight," if you know what i mean.

it also seems like a lot of her co-workers risk a lot to help her--courting the wrath of bosses, taking food off their own family's plates in order to feed her, thinking she's some down on her luck sad kid that needs to be taken care of. all for a stunt. some dumb journalistic stunt. it seemed like she played fast & loose with the livelihoods of a lot of people who would be hard pressed to find other employment if things didn't work out, just to preserve the "integrity" of her book project. it really bothered me.(less)

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Aug 20, 2012 Stephanie rated it 3 of 5 stars

This book takes Michael Pollan's concept of the "4 meals" a step further - McMillan goes undercover for a year to work in 3 different aspects of food production (as farm worker, as grocery stock clerk at Walmart (#1 grocer), and as food expediter at Applebee's (#1 restaurant)). A lot of her insights are startling, from lax food safety, to lack of concern for worker injuries, to her analysis of how Applebees "cooks" (hint: stay at home to save money and use your own microwave).

She also keeps a f...more

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Aug 12, 2012 Scott rated it 3 of 5 stars

My opinion of Tracie McMillan's book of investigative-journalism veered wildly as I read of her semi-undercover adventures on the front lines of American food: its production (she goes among the migrant workers on mega-farms in California), its distribution (she stocks produce at a WalMart outside of Detroit), and preparation (she gets a job putting the finishes on plates at a Flatbush Applebee's). What I liked was some of the big picture stuff, like the astonishing 25% market share that WalMart...more My opinion of Tracie McMillan's book of investigative-journalism veered wildly as I read of her semi-undercover adventures on the front lines of American food: its production (she goes among the migrant workers on mega-farms in California), its distribution (she stocks produce at a WalMart outside of Detroit), and preparation (she gets a job putting the finishes on plates at a Flatbush Applebee's). What I liked was some of the big picture stuff, like the astonishing 25% market share that WalMart has on the country's food supply--that's a quarter of all the "food" purchased in America comes from this place, most of it, of course, so processed and filled with crap; the produce department within which McMillan works is in some far corner of the store, the veggies and fruits mostly limp, slimy, or rotten--and how it got that way. Or the mechanics of agribusiness, and why these places either mechanize their production or pay extreme-poverty-level wages to workers (and then the subcontractors, who do the paperwork, for a layer of protection, lie on the checks about the hours, so it looks like minimum wage has been paid, and everyone just accepts this). Or how a high-volume/low-cost kitchen like Applebees works: basically, there's no cooking, just microwaving and assemblage. I wish she had done more about the business end of things; more of a follow the money book. What I found a lot less interesting was the personal side of her story: how she found places to live and work (luck, persistence, and craigslist, no news here); the people she met, who I could never keep track of (she has little talent for bringing someone to life in a few paragraphs); how men at every stop developed crushes on her, a seemingly odd, narcissistic detail she includes that makes more sense in the end, but not really. This stuff takes up at least half the book, probably more, and is far less compelling. In the obvious comparison, Barbra Enrich in Nickel and Dimed did a much better job on what life feels like on the poverty line, to be working your ass off doing something shitty and still be unable to afford your rent and food. (less)

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Jul 23, 2012 David rated it 3 of 5 stars

Generally interesting book that I liked a little less as I went on. Foodie journalist goes undercover by working for a couple months each picking crops in California, working in the grocery part of a wal-mart supercenter outside Detroit, and helping in the kitchen of an Applebee's in Brooklyn. The theme is how we get food from farm to table, and the economics of procuring and pareparing healthy food when you are making minimum wage (or less, as in the undocumented farm workers she reports on, of...more

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Jul 09, 2012 Sunday rated it 4 of 5 stars

Shelves: books-i-won-t-forget

My perspective on eating is forever changed after reading this book. Eating is a social act.
Tracie McMillan makes a case for being aware that our food has passed through many hands to get to our dinner plate.

I need to keep in mind the people who picked or harvested the food - maybe under harsh working conditions for little pay. I need to be leery of how my food has been shipped and stocked and whether the store I'm buying from is paying a livable wage, employing people full-time with benefits....more

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Jul 04, 2012 Kathy rated it 2 of 5 stars

I always thought the food at Applebees tasted like plastic. Now I know why! I haven't eaten there in years and now I won't ever again.

I already knew Wal-mart was evil and this just confirmed it. I never shop there. The Waltons are rich enough.

And, the way the migrant workers are treated and paid is shameful. Ms McMillan said it would cost the average American family $16 per year to increase their wages by 40%. I think most people could handle that.

But, I really do have to take issue with somethi...more

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Jun 08, 2012 Katie rated it 3 of 5 stars

Part anecdotal recount of a year spent working undercover at several stops along the U.S. food chain, part numbers-laden analysis of immigrant rights, labor politics, poverty, urban decay and growth and gentrification, and, of course, said food chain, "The American Way of Eating" took me a long time to read because it was like taking an entire class. McMillan is an accessible writer, and has good timing for switching from dry history and stats-quoting to harrowing stories of working the Valentin...more Part anecdotal recount of a year spent working undercover at several stops along the U.S. food chain, part numbers-laden analysis of immigrant rights, labor politics, poverty, urban decay and growth and gentrification, and, of course, said food chain, "The American Way of Eating" took me a long time to read because it was like taking an entire class. McMillan is an accessible writer, and has good timing for switching from dry history and stats-quoting to harrowing stories of working the Valentine's Day rush at the Bed-Stuy Applebee's in Creole Brooklyn. Some information that I'll keep in my back pocket, other than the broad sense I have that I am entirely right not to shop at WalMart ever, at all, working in fields is hard work and has racism and xenophobia built right on into the deal, and Applebee's has nary a fresh item between its hallowed walls:
-Citizens of the US catch a lot of flak for having "no food culture," based in large part on the fact that we spend a lower percentage of our incomes on food than, say, the French. But here's the thing: we have to pay for communication, higher education, transportation, and health care with our incomes, too; THE FRENCH DO NOT. So cut us a freaking break.
-WalMart is so fabulously successful mostly because they own their own distribution system, too. The money saved on contracting with, packing, shipping, and selling groceries themselves means they can ask for lower prices that then drive smaller local businesses under.
-Also, WalMart throws away a billion pounds of food away a year.
-Also, their food is never, ever, ever fresh.
-Speaking of which, Applebees straight up LIES about when their food expires. And everything comes out of a plastic bag. The expo person is pulling flakes of melted plastic out of your vegetables until the second they are delivered to your table.
-Detroit is considered such an infamous food desert in large part because most of the massive amount of food that DOES come into the city is shipped out immediately, as in, within twelve hours of arriving at the produce terminal, to the suburbs. It's TRYING not to be a food desert. The urban gardening scene is growing, in more ways than one.
-Sexism: TOTALLY EXISTS IN THE FOOD SYSTEM. WHO KNEW?!

(less)

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Jun 08, 2012 Autumn rated it 4 of 5 stars

Fascinating, fascinating book!

Reporter Tracie McMillan, inspired by conversation with subjects of her stories on the 'poverty beat' of the paper for which she worked, embarked on an undercover, year long quest to find out how food gets to our tables and how the people that make this possible, often the lowest paid workers in our society, make ends meet. From the growing fields of California, to retail sales in Michigan, to a neighboorhood family chain restaurant in New York City, McMillan works...more Fascinating, fascinating book!

Reporter Tracie McMillan, inspired by conversation with subjects of her stories on the 'poverty beat' of the paper for which she worked, embarked on an undercover, year long quest to find out how food gets to our tables and how the people that make this possible, often the lowest paid workers in our society, make ends meet. From the growing fields of California, to retail sales in Michigan, to a neighboorhood family chain restaurant in New York City, McMillan works and lives alongside the people about whom she writes, discovering the hardships as well as the strong community ties necessary for the American 'underclass' to get by.

I've been thinking about food a lot lately. As the SAHM of my lower middle income family, it's my responsibility to get food in the house and on the table in the most cost efficient and yet healthy way possible. Anyone who is trying to do that now, with the way food costs have been rising, can tell you that is a challenge. This book caught my eye in the library, and kept my riveted from beginning to end.

McMillan has managed to tell her very real story with the skill of a novelist, blending anecdotes about her various jobs with facts and figures (all carefully footnoted and documented)to support her conclusions in a way that never made me feel overwhelmed with data, yet had enough gravitas to fully support her observations.

I want you to read this book, so I'm not going to tell you the whole story here. Suffice to say that I'll not take the produce I eat for granted again (nor will I likely eat at a chain restaurant-not that I do often anyway-without a lot of consideration).

McMillan does not shy from revealing her own mistakes along the way, nor does she seem to edit her own reactions. Despite her humble upbringing (according to her), there are every so often hints of a bit of classism that were a little jarring, but not often enough to stop me from reading the book. I think her conclusion that Americans need to make changes in how they eat and what they eat seem to be valid, and the need for so many to learn to cook has been clear to me for quite a while.

I thoroughly enjoyed this book, and it's given me much food for thought. (less)

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Apr 20, 2012 Carolyn rated it 2 of 5 stars

Similar in style to Nickle and Dimed, and once again, I struggle through another elitist scribe. I don't know why I read these! I keep hoping to find some real answers to serious concerns, but instead get rants on the evils of capitalism.
I found a few things odd. When did she work at Walmart? In 1970? I worked there in the 90's and do not recall having to ticket items. Also, I had pretty good benefits. Health insurance for part time, stock options, pizza parties and really nice managers. Does...more

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Apr 14, 2012 Amy rated it 3 of 5 stars

Shelves: food-cooking

Class is the big theme here. The incredible hard scrabble of minimum wage (if you're lucky) work. For each undercover job, the author had a hard time paying rent and feeding herself. A holiday cookie-exchange party 30 miles away creates financial hardship because of all the eggs and butter, and the gas to drive there. Her budget issues were stressful to read about, but she balanced them with portrayals of some really kind, generous co-workers and roommates.

As far as food goes, I learned a lot a...more

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Mar 20, 2012 Maria Cunningham-Benn rated it 4 of 5 stars

The American Way of Eating is a groundbreaking book that exposes why Americans eat the way they do, where we get our food, and why food is priced the way it is. Many Americans know that the processed food we eat is not good for us but we still eat it anyway. What the author, Tracie McMillan, strives to uncover is why healthy food is a luxury for the average American. McMillan went undercover working as a grape picker, peach picker, garlic cutter, Wal-Mart produce clerk and a line cook at Applebe...more

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Mar 14, 2012 Orea rated it 3 of 5 stars

If you ever read "nickle and dimed" this book was a lot like it except Ms McMillan did not just take any low paying job, it had to be in the food industry. She had three jobs. The first was working in the fields in California harvesting garlic, then on to Wal-Mart stocking produce and finally working at Applebees as an expeditor. Basically she was tracking food from the field and the journey it takes through America to the consumer. Her notes were extensive and I really enjoyed the depth of her...more

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Feb 22, 2012 Jessica rated it 5 of 5 stars

i'm stil pulling my own thoughts together on this essential and hugely enjoyabe book. It will change foodwriting if we let it. In the meantime, the review that hits a lot of the points I'd want to make has already been written by the man who spent 10 years as the editor of the New York Times Book Review. Please check this out.

Before the Food Arrives on Your Plate, So Much Goes on Behind the Scenes
By DWIGHT GARNER
Published: February 20, 2012

One of the first things to like about Tracie McMillan,...more

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Apr 18, 2012 Katie rated it 3 of 5 stars

I found this book interesting, but I have to knock it down a notch for being a ripoff of Barbara Ehrenreich's "Nickel and Dimed." It's the exact same concept, but food-focused instead of just general low-wage jobs like Ehrenreich. So much of what she had to say echoed Nickel and Dimed.

But, OK, so it was food-specific, and that was different, and there were interesting anecdotes there. It actually wasn't quite as disturbing as I thought it would be--I mean, yes, there were stories about trimming...more

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Mar 17, 2012 Gordon rated it 4 of 5 stars

This book is almost as important as The Price of Civilization by Sachs. Clearly he is the more serious writer, the expert in his field while McMillan is more in the Barbara Ehrenreich camp. She immersed herself in the world we depend upon for eating. Her depiction of the fields of California, the good people who bring cheap food to our tables, is heartwarming and wrenching at the same time. For just a few pennies more on the bulb of garlic or bundle of grapes we could pay these people, offer the...more

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Jul 16, 2012 Katie rated it 3 of 5 stars

In The American Way of Eating the author essentially sets out to discover why Americans eat so poorly, how we came to do so and what it would take to make everyone, even the poorest, eat better. It is a praiseworthy ambition, but I don't think she quite hit the mark. The author chooses to explore the American way of eating by traveling around the country to live and work with various employees of the industrial food system. She works with migrant field workers in California, produce stockers in...more

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Apr 08, 2012 Leilani rated it 3 of 5 stars

Recommended to Leilani by: New York Times, Rachel Maddow

Shelves: food

Really, McMillan's experiences working at Wal-Mart and Applebee's didn't tell me anything I hadn't already surmised from my experiences shopping and eating there - Wal-Mart's produce isn't fresh and a lot of corners get cut; people eat at Applebee's not for fresh meals but but for the experience of dining out with friends. But she wrote about those experiences, and her struggles living on a minimum-wage budget and having the time and energy to cook healthfully, in a clear and appealing voice.

Th...more

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Sep 03, 2012 Karen rated it 4 of 5 stars

I admire Tracie's dedications in writing this book, she walks-the-walks to provide her readers a dynamic view of the food industry, and not just replying on research datas. I do believe that by understanding how foods come from is a essential step for anyone to appreciate foods.

Tracie did raise some good questions, why fresh food shouldn't be as important as water and electricity, which is available to nearly every American? Do we all "commercialized" foods as a consumer goods instead of a nece...more

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About Tracie McMillan

A working-class transplant from rural Michigan, Brooklyn-based writer Tracie McMillan is the author of the New York Times bestseller, The American Way of Eating: Undercover at Walmart, Applebee’s, Farm Fields and the Dinner Table. Mixing immersive reporting, undercover investigative techniques and “moving first-person narrative” (Wall Street Journal), McMillan’s book argues for thinking of fresh,...more

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