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Surfing in Hawai'i: 1778-1930 (Images of America: Hawaii)
When the early European explorers traversed the globe, their journals held numerous accounts of Hawaiians enjoying surfing. Since Europeans of that era were not accustomed to swimming in their own cold waters, it must have seemed like a dream to watch naked native Hawaiians riding the waves of a turbulent sea. Nowhere in the ancient world was surfing as ingrained into the ...more
Paperback, 128 pages
Published June 13th 2011 by Arcadia Publishing
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Great pictorial narrative of surfing of surfing for the time period. Interesting to read of the reintroduction of the long board by Duke Kahanamoku. Guess there was a longboard revolution before there was a shortboard revolution. Also very interesting to read of the resistance to the hollow boards introduction by Tom Blake. It seems that change in the sport (shortboards, thrusters, longboardings comeback, and now SUP) has always been met with some resistance and this little book sheds some light ...more