A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire

A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire

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3.86 of 5 stars 3.86  ·  rating details  ·  842 ratings  ·  128 reviews
In the sixteenth century, one of the world's most precious commodities was cochineal, a legendary red dye treasured by the ancient Mexicans and sold in the great Aztec marketplaces, where it attracted the attention of the Spanish conquistadors. Shipped to Europe, the dye created a sensation, producing the brightest, strongest red the world had ever seen. Soon Spain's cochi...more
Paperback, 352 pages
Published April 25th 2006 by Harper Perennial (first published 2005)
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Jill
This book reminds me of an optical illusion that looks like one thing when you look at it one way, but looks like something totally different when viewed another way – think of the ubiquitous Escher posters... Viewed from one perspective, A Perfect Red is a quirky and witty, albeit highly selective, history of Western Civilization from 1500 to the present, with a special emphasis on the Spanish Empire. From another perspective, it is a 261-page history of the trade in a particular commodity that...more
Brian Kelley
Both exhaus­tive and exhaust­ing, I strug­gled through A Per­fect Red by Amy But­ler Greenfield. Per­haps this is more a reflec­tion on me than the writer as the book has gar­nered many plau­dits from top reviewers. Green­field obvi­ous­ly did her homework--there is lit­tle wast­ed space--as she ele­vates a lowly insect to instant celebrity.

I did learn quite a bit, so the book did not dis­ap­point in that regard. Yet the full title was so invit­ing that I expect­ed some­thing sex­i­er in style...more
Camelama
This was a fasctinating book - so much information that I knew the top layer of, but had no idea all the history that lurked beneath! I love reading about how some tiny event, object or person can shift the entire world history ... and this book is full of those lovely gems. A more in-depth look at the entire timeline would take many many books, as this covers everything from ancient red dyes through Cortez and Spanish rule of the Americas, and on into 20th century chemical dye creations. So whi...more
Andrea
I picked up this book while in the town of Independencia, Bolivia, volunteering and learning to do some simple weaving at a tiny community weaving initiative, spearheaded by a former Peace Corps volunteer (pazabolivia.org). They are working to revive and pass down their complex traditional weaving heritage, and at the same time reclaim some of the traditional knowledge they've lost. One of the lost pieces is dying fiber (mostly llama and sheep wool) from natural dyes. For their reds, pinks, and...more
Cheryl
Since I seem to be on a roll talking about books that have to do with knitting, I'll add this one. Cochineal, who knew? Years out from reading the book, I still get pleasure thinking about it when I notice it on the bookshelf. Cochineal is a dyestuff derived from parasitic colonies of scale insects that are native to Mexican cacti. For centuries it was a commodity that drove empire and espionage worldwide, as the subtitle says. Before cochineal was available from the Spanish colonies, there was...more
Angela
Amy Butler Greenfield’s A Perfect Red tells a two-fold story of human interactions with the color red. The novel traces the paths of development of red dye technology from its origins in ochre, used by Cro-Magnon, to madder to cochineal to modern synthetic dyes. The author specifically goes into great detail about the history of cochineal, a small insect originally from Mexico. The Spanish conquistadores found the natives cultivating it in New Spain. This insect yielded a brilliant red dye when...more
Sharon Griffitts
This was a most interesting book about the color red but also about a bit of history I was totally unaware of. Red is seen today as a color of power, war, anger, energy but was not always so readily available as today.
It was once worn only by nobility and the richest of the rich due to the high cost, making sense of its association with power. Most of the book centers on early years of Spanish rule in the Americas, specifically in Mexico where the most brilliant reds were created from little bu...more
Andres
Extremely interesting chronicle of what was once a highly lucrative commodity that nobody really remembers today: a bug that produces a red dye that, at the time, couldn't be beat.

We all know Spain mined the "new world" for its gold and silver but cochineal was an empire money maker for hundreds of years, mainly because it kept the insect a secret, exporting only the dye product to those willing to pay handsomely for it but never revealing its origin. Even after it was proved to be an insect ste...more
Susan
I adored this rich history of the color red and the explanation of the desires and mysteries surrounding all shades of crimson.
Greenfield does for the hue,what Davis did for the book ,Strapless and the intense research about Sargeant and his notorious poser.

From the beginning of man,red has been a remarkable tease. Trying to capture the color on fabric or glass has been something wars and rivalries have been fought fiercely over. Every deeply researched page is filled with remarkable exploration...more
Garen
Nov 20, 2007 Garen rated it 5 of 5 stars Recommends it for: any one who wants to sink into another time and place
What do we take for granted? So many things. Here's a book that tells us how the world was tipped sideways with the acquisition of just one of those things: an abundant and stable source of the color red. Who knew?
Elizabeth S
Real history by a real historian with a real gift for telling the story. Shifting perspectives from the alchemy of Renaissance guilds of cloth dyers through the period of colonial imperialism, the search for the best technology of the era to dye cloth the perfect shade of red. Cochineal. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cochineal A wonderful re-telling of familiar periods.

My only wish is for yet more about the pre-conquest Mexican culture which in fact developed the best technology. A sequel I hope...more
Mattie
I often enjoy histories of small or offbeat subjects. It can be a great way to learn obscure things and to think about "bigger" historical events in a different way. Amy Greenfield's history of cochineal - "Europe's premier red dyestuff" - is a terrific example of this genre. A Perfect Red weaves together the cultural history of the color red, particularly in textiles, has had in the West with the natural history of the insects and plants required to create cochineal and the political history of...more
Marie
I loved this book - not fine literature but a great story. who would think you could take the cochineal insect that feeds off the nopales cactus in remote Oaxaca mexico and turn it into a story - just as the title says - of espionage - and more: world history, international trade, dueling egos of monarchies, explorers, and rapid nationalists defending the honor of spain against england. Very quick read and appropriate for teens on up. But then again, maybe I loved it b/c i was actually reading i...more
Margie R-O
Amy's work is beyond through! This was a fascinating story. While tracing the microhistory of the color red, it ties together the history of conquest in the Americas with the concurrent events in Europe. In most histories these are only loosely related, but it's amazing to see how they affected one another. Amy's storytelling method connects the two together so you could see their effect on each other. It isn't an easy read, but it was worthwhile. I'd love to see a fictionalization of this story...more
Emily
Given its subject matter, this book had the potential to be very dry and tedious, even for a textile history buff such as myself. The bulk of the book focuses on the story of cochineal, and the various (mostly failed) attempts by European powers to acquire it for their own production. From Pirates to Perkin's Purple, my interest was held from start to finish. Because I read it on the Kindle, I sadly missed out on all the images that were provided in the print edition. The writing is very accessi...more
Marfita
This book has everything: science, history, politics, botany, biology, couture, and espionage. Greenfield puts the history of the cochineal into perspective, from millennia of cultivation by the Tlaxcalans to the hunger for intense colors in dyes across Europe and Asia. Apparently, Europeans didn't have a satisfactory red dye until the Cortez sent some cochineal back after his conquest of Mexico. The Spanish maintained their monopoly of the dye for a long time and even though they freely admitte...more
Steve Bennett

A Perfect Red is a very nice book. I learned way more about the cochineal (hope I spelled it correctly--still do not know how to pronounce the word)than I ever thought I would know in this life. It is the insect that is responsible for the best red dye used for centuries. A delightful book with byway discussions of Spanish imperialism (the cochineal is native to Mexico and Spain used all its imperial powers to profit from the cochineal trade ), early advancements in microscopes (for a long time...more
Orsolya
Did you know that “red” is the oldest color term in all languages (save black and white)? No? You aren’t an artist, say? Although creative genes are welcome, this book envelops catchy themes such as pirates, secrecy, espionage, social standing of colors and dyestuffs, etc; and isn’t merely for the artistic audience. A Perfect Red demonstrates the soap opera values of history and combines a valuable sweeping resource of art, history, and science.

Having enjoyed and learned more in the four-page pr...more
Bev Hankins
I'm afraid that A Perfect Red: Empire Espionage, & the Quest for the Color of Desire didn't do a whole lot for me. And I don't think it's Amy Butler Greensfield's fault. You see, I was kind of confused when I picked this up at my local library's used bookstore in July 2011. The kindly volunteers who manage the store had shelved it on the hardback fiction shelf and when I read the synopsis I thought that this must fictional history. I've read those before--heavy on the history, but still a fi...more
Joy
I originally saw this book for sale at the Sewing Expo, and picked it up on my Kindle a few weeks later. It's a fascinating nonfiction read about the color red and the quest for red dye throughout the last thousand years or so. The truest reds came from cochineal, a small insect indigenous to Mexico, and entire trade router, companies, fortunes, and empires turned on the possession and use of cochineal. The facts about the cochineal industry are fascinating, from the labor-intensive nopalries wh...more
Ellen
Apr 28, 2011 Ellen rated it 4 of 5 stars
Recommended to Ellen by: Dr. Gaskins
An amazing account of the origin of the highly sought after red dye. I admit I had to read this for a class, but this book wasn't specifically assigned to me; I chose to read this for a book report because I saw the word "red" in it, and I didn't care what it was about as long it was about red (which is my favorite color if I didn't make it obvious). Anyway, I don't regret my decision one bit. My only regret is not buying a copy of the book (I borrowed the book from my university library) becaus...more
Trena
Dec 21, 2009 Trena rated it 4 of 5 stars Recommends it for: Nerdy Fashionistas
This book, a history of cochineal dye, was a well-told, fascinating story. As with any commodity history, the author gets a little too convinced of the importance of her pet commodity (see also, Salt), but it does not diminish the scale of the story.

As with Salt, the book focuses a lot on Europe, a little on the Americas, and none on Africa. It is more justifiable, however, as cochineal is a Central American product that was exported pretty much exclusively to Europe. It would have been interes...more
Paige
SHORT REVIEW:
In medieval Europe, red textiles were available only to royalty because there was no reliable source of red dye. All of this changed when the Spanish Conquistadores discovered cochineal, a natural dye producing an intense shade of crimson, being sold in the Aztec marketplaces in Mexico. This discovery set off a global competition – complete with spies and pirates - to obtain the valuable material. Weaving together fascinating strands of social, political and economic history, Green...more
Will Byrnes
Cochineal was the source of rich red color for centuries. What is it? A question for which Europe had no true answer for hundreds of years. This book tells the tale of the color red, how the color was viewed in society in various periods of time. (An indicator of class distinction, or of harlotry, for example) It is primarily a tale of adventure in which many attempt to locate the true source of this very valuable product, then try to steal it. Not only adventurers but scientists applied their s...more
Hannah
For obvious reasons, I really wanted to like this book. Unfortunately, I am easily bored by political histories and the bulk of this book is just that. It’s really a history of the cultivation and use of the cochineal bug for red dyes, which is a story very similar to the cultivation and use of cacao, quinine, coca, sugar, coffee, bananas, and many other New World products that Europeans pillaged from the Americas, and that I have already read about.

For me, the book didn’t get interesting until...more
Ruth Charchian
How in the world could the simple color red generate SO much global history and impact the livelihoods of so many people for centuries? This book should be on the MIA book tour list for 2013. It is a fascinating history for historians, artists, weavers, and designers of all stripes. Not only is this story fascinating, given the vast amounts of revenue making the color red generated for many countries, cities,and how many jobs were created, how come i never heard about any of it before this book?...more
Kate
I love this sort of popular history of everyday things.

The middle of the book feels like it should be called "the history of cochineal," but that's reflective of the history, at least as far as I can tell.

I have no way of evaluating the historical facts, but the writing is engaging and I've been having fun reading this.

Having gotten to the end, it turns out this did start out as a book about cochineal, and the other stuff is just historical context. That makes more sense.
Rebecca
I'm a fan both of color and of microhistories, so this was a good match for me. I enjoyed most of it, though I enjoyed the science and history of color use more than the political wrangling that went on over the cochineal. It was all interesting, though. I do think I got more out of the books 'Mauve' about the development of the first aniline dye, and Finlay's 'Colors: a natural history of the palette,' which was about many colors. Still, I'm glad I read this one.
Elizabeth B.
This was a surprising surprising book. Who would have ever thought that at one time, Oaxacan cochineal farmers held Europe's supply of the most desirable color in their hands? Greenfield outlines the history of the pigment and its vital role in Renaissance economy. It could be considered one of the engines of the age of discovery, along with that of the spices. The topic alone of the domestication of this tiny cactus dwelling bug is an amazing revelation.
Mary
I stumbled on this little gem at the exhibit about dyes at the DeYoung. Butler tells the story of the discovery of the first "perfect" red dye by putting it into a vast context: the histories of the new and old worlds and how they interacted, the development of science and technology, the fluctuations of fashion, the development of global markets, etc. She does a masterful job of making an arcane subject into a fascinating story.
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History 4 16 Mar 06, 2010 09:08am  
A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire (Hardcover)
A Perfect Red (Kindle Edition)
A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage And The Quest For The Colour Of Desire (Hardcover)
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A Perfect Red (ebook)

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Amy Butler Greenfield was a grad student in history when she gave into temptation and became a writer. Since then, she has become an award-winning author.

Born in Philadelphia, Amy grew up in the Adirondack Mountains and later studied history at Williams College, the University of Wisconsin-Madison, and Oxford. She now lives with her family in England, where she writes, bakes double-dark-chocolate...more
More about Amy Butler Greenfield...
Chantress (Chantress, #1) Virginia Bound

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